How important is 60ft time?

**Stav** · 24-07-2005, 07:48 PM

Sorry if this is the wrong place...but how important is a 60ft time in a 1/4 mile and why?

Ok you get off the line quicker..so how does this affect the rest of the run?

ratter · 24-07-2005, 08:23 PM

A good 60 ft time shows how well your car gets hooked up and has a big effect on how quick your car will et.

MPH shows your power to weigh ratio and it also will tell you how quick your car may be able to go, ie 109 mph is good for a 12 flat providing everything working together, but means you should also have a good 60 ft time.
If your 60 ft is slow it means your car is wheel spinning and/or not setup correctly to acheive the best possible et due to too slow to get off the line.

I'm not sure of the figures, but a 60ft that is 2 tenths quicker may result in possibly .5 second quicker et

Casper · 24-07-2005, 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ratter

I'm not sure of the figures, but a 60ft that is 2 tenths quicker may result in possibly .5 second quicker et

Sounds about right.

**Stav** · 24-07-2005, 08:53 PM

So in theory if I am running 0-100 kmph in 6.5 seconds and a 1/4 mile of around 15.5 I could possibly do a 6.3 0-100 second run and 15 second 1/4?

Ps thanks guys.. :sm_headba

ratter · 24-07-2005, 08:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by useless

So in theory if I am running 0-100 kmph in 6.5 seconds and a 1/4 mile of around 15.5 I could possibly do a 6.3 0-100 second run and 15 second 1/4?

Ps thanks guys.. :sm_headba

Yes

But there's lot of factors that come in to it, diff gears, what rpm you dump the clutch or what high stall you have, how much weight you have to move compared to what horsepower you have etc.

But the quicker you get whatever combination you have moving, the quicker the et will be

rodderz · 24-07-2005, 09:04 PM

Put simply, a fast 1/4 mile time means the faster you get up and going, the quicker you'll get to the finish! Quite a few guys have used the rule that on a good run, a 10th drop in the 60' time will generally mean a 3/10th's drop in ET.

Generally most people also find that a faster 60' will mean a lower MPH at the end, but a quicker ET, yet on the other hand a slower 60' with more wheelspin will mean a slower ET but more MPH

**Stav** · 24-07-2005, 09:05 PM

Well I have done everything else to my au six..all that is left is an lsd with a conservative 3:45 diff ratio and hi stall converter.

rodderz · 24-07-2005, 09:11 PM

How are you launching your auto? Going off the handbrake to get some load onto the rear end before you take off?

**Stav** · 24-07-2005, 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rodderz

Put simply, a fast 1/4 mile time means the faster you get up and going, the quicker you'll get to the finish! Quite a few guys have used the rule that on a good run, a 10th drop in the 60' time will generally mean a 3/10th's drop in ET.

Generally most people also find that a faster 60' will mean a lower MPH at the end, but a quicker ET, yet on the other hand a slower 60' with more wheelspin will mean a slower ET but more MPH

I think a .2 to .4 second cut in my existing 60ft (theoretical) times are realistic seeing the lsd and stallie may be going in over the next 3 months.

I think that this is a good move considering the weight and power limitations of a i6 au station wagon which weighs 1900 kgs any working day in total

I am a 0-100 fanatic.The test I have done were stalling the auto with foot on the brake and letting go.

**Stav** · 24-07-2005, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rodderz

How are you launching your auto? Going off the handbrake to get some load onto the rear end before you take off?

Is this the best way?

rodderz · 24-07-2005, 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by useless

Is this the best way?

I'm not an auto driver myself (i prefer real gearboxes..lol

) but i believe you use a combination of foot brakes and handbrake to raise the revs higher on the line so that the rear wheels wont spin or it wont drive the car foreward, then some of the inertia will be put onto the rear end of the car, so that when all brakes are released you already have an advantage as the weight transfer is at the back wheels, and less wheelspin. You will need good rubber though, and the more power you have the more wheelspin you would likely get on street tyres.

Maybe some of the auto poofs can add a more first hand experience?

:

**Stav** · 24-07-2005, 09:27 PM

The best 0-100 time I have achieved so far act the way you describe.Both back wheels spun and grab the road..taking me forward...I was surprised I got such a good run.Yes it was with 150kgs of tools in the back too.

ratter · 24-07-2005, 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rodderz

Maybe some of the auto poofs can add a more first hand experience?

:

I can see the wrath of Chris attacking you :thebirds:

If I can remember rightly, you were impressed with his poofmobile

:
:eclipsee_

rodderz · 24-07-2005, 09:32 PM

Haha... all the fastest times have been auto so they got one up on me already, so much more consistant. I'm sure Jeff and Shane will agree with the auto ghey thing though!

: :king:

:

Quadcams · 24-07-2005, 09:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rodderz

Haha... all the fastest times have been auto so they got one up on me already, so much more consistant. I'm sure Jeff and Shane will agree with the auto ghey thing though!

: :king:

:

Im with you rodders I love me manual too!

**Stav** · 24-07-2005, 09:42 PM

I cant drive manual all day because of a rooted shoulder..so the auto does it for me...

stockstandard · 24-07-2005, 09:43 PM

After the 60' line, auto drivers just slow the car down. 85 odd kg of flesh stuffing up the power to weight ratio just to do the job of a brick and a club-lock.

j/k

**Stav** · 24-07-2005, 10:02 PM

Then it may be a situation where a hi stall and a very retarded cam will make up for the slackness.

stockstandard · 24-07-2005, 10:09 PM

Useless: Find a way to get to the drags, find out what it is doing now, then youll know what you need to do

Interesting to read the 60' to et comparison.

I did my best ET with a 2.4 60' (14.8s)

The following two runs got 2.2s 60', but stuffed up after and got 14.9's

So if these numbers are roughly right, if I get my act together and string a 2.2s 60' and a good run together I might drop my time from 14.8 to ~14.3.

Then if I got a LSD with a decent ratio and cut another 1/10 or two of my 60, my car could potentially be capable of a flat 14 pass...

I hope its right, but getting a even a low 14s pass with 146kw falcon seems optimistic to me. Ill do my best to prove it right though.

SpoolMan · 24-07-2005, 10:12 PM

60 foot time shows how good you launched your car, the 1st 60 foot is the most important a good 60 foot should relate to a good ET.
.
(Except for Rodderz he is to busy playing with his stick)

rodderz · 24-07-2005, 10:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XRFPV8

.
(Except for Rodderz he is to busy playing with his stick)

Too busy actually driving!
:thebirds:

xr8ute · 24-07-2005, 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by useless

Then it may be a situation where a hi stall and a very retarded cam will make up for the slackness.

don't play with the cam, just fit a higher stall converter and more grip at the rear (i.e. LSD, and more rubber)

rodderz · 24-07-2005, 10:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xr8ute

don't play with the cam, just fit a higher stall converter and more grip at the rear (i.e. LSD, and more rubber)

Thats a good piece of advice, to make a car faster you dont necessarily have to up the horsepower. You can get better gains sometimes from car setup, such as stall converters or diff gears. All depends on whether the ECU will like it though being an auto

**Stav** · 24-07-2005, 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xr8ute

don't play with the cam, just fit a higher stall converter and more grip at the rear (i.e. LSD, and more rubber)

Yes mate I tend to agree with you..its running good for a change.

Walkinshaw · 25-07-2005, 12:47 AM

The race is over by the 60' mark.

Sox · 25-07-2005, 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xr8ute

don't play with the cam, just fit a higher stall converter and more grip at the rear (i.e. LSD, and more rubber)

He won't need more rubber with a LSD.
An auto I6 Falcon wagon ain't gonna have a traction problem on a sticky drag strip unless it has 3.9's in the bum.

Rick.

Supa R00 · 25-07-2005, 09:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by useless

Both back wheels spun and grab the road..taking me forward...I was surprised

Lol sorry useless, just having a chuckle to myself, found that quite funny

:

Racecraft · 25-07-2005, 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sox

He won't need more rubber with a LSD.
A auto I6 Falcon wagon ain't gonna have a traction problem on a sticky drag strip unless it has 3.9's in the bum.

Rick.

or 205*15" cheesecutters on the rears...

**Stav** · 25-07-2005, 12:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Supa R00

Lol sorry useless, just having a chuckle to myself, found that quite funny

:

Thats cool mate...I found it funnier!! Because I am finally getting it right.

jonbays · 25-07-2005, 08:51 PM

Trust me an AU wagon doesn't have traction problems with a 3.23 diff, std torque connverter and decent tyres as its too heavy and doesn't have enough torque at 1800rpm lock up to really do more than chirp the tyres.

I agree though its all over in the 60' for a good ET.

The TS is a very good guage of power or power to weight really.

Here are some real figures for consideration. This is the average of the top 5 runs at WSID of Sox's brothers Dev3HL 5 spd XH Ute versus my Dev3hl auto AU fairmont wagon. The utes not much lighter than the wagon I guess yet it beats me hands down going down the track although the TS is a little lower and you can see that by the 1/8th I am going faster but never enough to catch up despite quite similar power to weight. It is all in the 60'!

Name 60' 330' 660' MPH 1000' ET MPH
Danny 2.17 6.21 9.67 71.22 12.62 15.12 87.98
jonbays 2.38 6.67 10.15 71.25 13.14 15.68 89.18

You could also conclude from this that a manual conversion is worth a full half a second on the quarter for a Falcon six.