getting the lardarse wagon off the line

[jonbays]

I have been running the wagon a bit now and know the limitations of the weight and power I have but i am finding its off the line performance its worst feature.

How do i imporve it? I am tempted to go for the Jim Mock histall as i run theri cam successfully but how streetable will it be for me a wagon dad if i am honest who is still playing at drag racing.

My best three times so far in 28 degrees with all the mods in the sig.

Name60'330'660'MPH1000'ETMPHjonbays2.34406.570010.009071.450012.963015.464090.2400jonbays2.33406.56809.990072.160012.961015.474091.8400jonbays2.37806.657010.110070.970013.058015.549090.5000

[jonbays]

that didnt work hows this

60' 330' 660' MPH 1000' ET MPH
2.3440 6.5700 10.0090 71.4500 12.9630 15.4640 90.2400
2.3340 6.5680 9.9900 72.1600 12.9610 15.4740 91.8400
2.3780 6.6570 10.1100 70.9700 13.0580 15.5490 90.5000

[CAMS290]

A Hi stall converter is your friend, even a 3500 or there abouts are still streetable.
Just make sure you install a trans cooler if you put a Hi stall in as they tend to heat up the fluid in stop start traffic......oh and forget about towing anything too !!!

[Craig]

What Cam said. The I6 really need a nice stall convertor. You seem to have all the other mods youre just missing out on a real important piece of the puzzle.

Cheers CC

[Tri Power 289]

Originally Posted by jonbays

I have been running the wagon a bit now and know the limitations of the weight and power I have but i am finding its off the line performance its worst feature.

How do i imporve it? I am tempted to go for the Jim Mock histall as i run theri cam successfully but how streetable will it be for me a wagon dad if i am honest who is still playing at drag racing.

My best three times so far in 28 degrees with all the mods in the sig.

Before edit, CAI, LSD and 3000 stall convertor, my best 60' was a pathetic 2.5 on a 15.9 run. It is now 2.08. i would be suprised if you didn't go very close to a 14 straight away, although with a single spinner diff, traction might become a problem.

As far as streetability goes jonbays, I guarantee anyone not totally familiar with the car would not even know it was in there if they drove it.
But you will......! :dr_Evil:

[jonbays]

OK you're convincing me. my car stalls now at 1800-2000 odd and at 1800 takes off sharply but at 2000 sort of limps off a bit worse. so from 0-45kmh its slow then at 2500rpm it sort of almost switches on and goes well.

So for a stally do i want to go for a 2500rpm 3500rpm stall or what?

Jim Mock do them and I can get one of their easy as but what other choices are there?

And yes i will put a trans cooler on for sure if i do the hi stall

[nugget378]

Yep, stall is the way to go,the only other easy thing is to get as much weight out of it as you reasonably can,the more weight you can get out of it the better it will 60.

[jonbays]

Originally Posted by nugget378

Yep, stall is the way to go,the only other easy thing is to get as much weight out of it as you reasonably can,the more weight you can get out of it the better it will 60.

Weight is the eneemy but this is my family wagon and its not really that sort of car as i do drive it daily for my job. So weight wise i run it as i drive it every day and at WSID scrutineering it weighs in at 1650kg without me so its not awfully heavy just not a lightweight.

[mik]

what about turboing the beast, i might do mine down the track , my brother has donated 2 turbos off supras he`s wrecked 2x3 litre , they are also cheap too buy i think,...... that would get the wagon boogeying

[jonbays]

Originally Posted by mik

what about turboing the beast, i might do mine down the track , my brother has donated 2 turbos off supras he`s wrecked 2x3 litre , they are also cheap too buy i think,...... that would get the wagon boogeying

Well of course that would be nice BUT... ... . It is my daily driven family wagon and the wagon chassis dynamics wouldn't really handle that sort of power without lots of work to get it to handle and brake better and then what about the engineers certificate for rego then insurance etc.

I might as well sell it and buy an XR6T it would be cheaper and easier.

You can make a high 16 car into a low 15 but what I want here is the red light 0-60 performance increase not to pull 100MPH plus throught the quarter.

[mik]

yep point taken.

[mik]

what about diff change?

[jonbays]

Originally Posted by mik

what about diff change?

Already gone from stock 3.23 to 3.45 XR6 ratio.

Could go lower but the wagon tailshaft is long and the speed limiter becomes stupidly low like 140k if you go too far. It's easy to fix the limiter but not the carnage if it lets go! Also the trans fluid gets foamed up by spinning the ts too fast.

I considered 3.73 but kept it at lowest stock ratio as I don't want to put a two piece tailshaft in that would be too much trouble.

[nugget378]

Originally Posted by jonbays

Weight is the eneemy but this is my family wagon and its not really that sort of car as i do drive it daily for my job. So weight wise i run it as i drive it every day and at WSID scrutineering it weighs in at 1650kg without me so its not awfully heavy just not a lightweight.

I didnt mean go silly,just what you can easily take out, spare/jack/etc: then maybe just what you could unbolt in ten or so minutes,something easy,even 40 or so kg will make a difference

[mik]

ahaaa just had a brain wave prolly cost prohibitive, but have you seen the gear vendors site, bolt on overdrives basicly another tranny on the end of a tranny, worth a read anyway, i just mentioned this on another thread, gives a split gear between gears and taller overdrive ....who needs a zf.....http://www.gearvendors.com/hrford4s.html

[vino3o2]

I also have no stall in my car and found that my 60' time was slightly better when I just stood on the go pedal rather than stall it up then flatten it...I cant explain it, maybe the converter streches a little more by say 100-200 rpm by just standing on it....anyway, thought id share my experience

[jonbays]

Originally Posted by vino3o2

I also have no stall in my car and found that my 60' time was slightly better when I just stood on the go pedal rather than stall it up then flatten it...I cant explain it, maybe the converter streches a little more by say 100-200 rpm by just standing on it....anyway, thought id share my experience

Can't say I can prove this with a slip actually and I have over 50 of them but mine feels the same. Stall it hard up on the brake and it feels worse. Lightly stall it feels OK no stall and try to surprise the converter and grab a few extra rpm and wellit it feels like a better launch for the first milsec then the same as a light stall.

Its not all about launch technique though as i have done this so many times now and even by accident you would think i would have fluked a better technique by now.

No its about modding the drivetrain engine ecu or wahtever to improve the 0-40KMh or 60' time not just for a once off PB but for daily driving traffic light launch stuff not really drag strip launches as such.

[seXCmont]

yeh same problem with the pannie.