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Old 16-03-2007, 03:55 PM   #1
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Default Can you spot the problem?

I took a picture of my diff and to my amazement, I could not believe what I saw...


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Old 16-03-2007, 03:59 PM   #2
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Nut missing from Watts linkage.
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Old 16-03-2007, 04:19 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcxr
Nut missing from Watts linkage.
And the housing says "No oil". May want to fix that...
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Old 16-03-2007, 04:49 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcxr
Nut missing from Watts linkage.
Looks like its been missing for a while.
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Old 16-03-2007, 05:03 PM   #5
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I doubt it'd have no oil in it, diffs have a tendancy to weld the crownwheel and pinion together after 5kms of driving when they have no oil :P

And I pity the bearings...
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Old 16-03-2007, 05:05 PM   #6
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So whats the answer then?
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Old 16-03-2007, 05:16 PM   #7
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The "no oil" was on there when I bought the diff from the wreckers, meaning there was no oil in it, derr. Now when I installed the diff I must have for gotten to do it up with the rattle gun and its loosened its self off.

I just went down to the wreckers and they gave me the bolt and washers for free. I believe it has been missing for a while as I has been hearing weird thumping noises.

Plus my handbrake cable keeps coming off (I thinks its stretched), so I'll have to fix that as well.

Off to fix it now....
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Old 16-03-2007, 05:33 PM   #8
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At least the handbrake cable isn't too hard a job to do. Good luck with it mate
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Old 16-03-2007, 05:58 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AU dude
The "no oil" was on there when I bought the diff from the wreckers, meaning there was no oil in it, derr. Now when I installed the diff I must have for gotten to do it up with the rattle gun and its loosened its self off.

I just went down to the wreckers and they gave me the bolt and washers for free. I believe it has been missing for a while as I has been hearing weird thumping noises.

Plus my handbrake cable keeps coming off (I thinks its stretched), so I'll have to fix that as well.

Off to fix it now....
I'm replacing my diff pretty soon. How much did you pay for yours at the wreckers? How hard was it to install? How long did it take?

GK
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Old 16-03-2007, 06:33 PM   #10
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Replacing diffs sucks. If you can afford to pay someone to do it, fork out the money and save the bull ****
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Old 16-03-2007, 07:29 PM   #11
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With the tools I needed and err, ummm, with a bit of help from the dog, i was straight into it..


These were the parts needed,


...and this was that handbrake line that keeps disconnecting itself, but ill get to that later...


With the car in the air and the jack stands under the diff I could safely start fixing it.


I put the nut on and tightened it up...


I cheated a bit an used two spanners to get better leverage.


There, all done with that.


I used a cable tie to secure it on and hold it there so it wont come off again, i did the same to the other side and cut the ends off.


Quote:
Originally Posted by GK
I'm replacing my diff pretty soon. How much did you pay for yours at the wreckers? How hard was it to install? How long did it take?GK
Well I recommend that you buy yourself a LSD from and XR ute. I payed $600 for my diff without axles and brakes. I reused my original axle as they have the same amount of spline and original brakes
The diff wasnt too hard to replace, but I had access to a hoist, tools and a couple of mates to help me out. But it still can be done without a hoist.
Is all you do is jack up car from chassis, drop tail shaft, watts link, sway bars, and lower trailing arm. Then undo shock absorber bolts, diff drops down, and remove. Remove brakes and axles, switch them over and installation is the reversal of removal.
Then just top it up with LSD oil and away you go.

The only problem I ran into was that the xr's have different adjustment in the diffs, meaning that it either points down more than standard falcons. So is all I did was check were my original bolt line up on my stock diff.


As you can see in this picture, the different adjustment. Without changing this my tail shaft vibrated very violently from go, as the diff was pointing down.

Now I went from 3.08 to 3.45 ratio so speedo was out massively, so I had to change my speedo drive gear from the brown one with 20 teeth (standard) on it to a black one I purchased from Ford which has 23 teeth on it. Now speedo works fine.

EDIT: I think it took me 2 hours to change, then another 30mins to fix the tail shaft vibration.
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Last edited by AU dude; 16-03-2007 at 07:41 PM.
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Old 16-03-2007, 07:39 PM   #12
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Thanks for the extra info.

GK
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Old 17-03-2007, 12:43 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GK
Thanks for the extra info.

GK
No problem GK, PM me if you run into any problems when you do the install

Cheers
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Old 17-03-2007, 01:11 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AU dude
I took a picture of my diff and to my amazement, I could not believe what I saw...
No LSD Tag on the Diff ?
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Old 17-03-2007, 01:15 AM   #15
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Put your reading glasses on, it says LSD on that tag.
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Old 17-03-2007, 01:15 AM   #16
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Utes run a leaf spring so are no good for a sedan, could use the centre though.
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Old 17-03-2007, 03:35 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NeishaXR8_347
Utes run a leaf spring so are no good for a sedan, could use the centre though.
Yea so do wagons, thats why I suggested it for GK.
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Old 17-03-2007, 10:35 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AU dude
Yea so do wagons, thats why I suggested it for GK.
Yeah i know i was just saying just incase some didnt know, but most do.
How was the differance going from a 3.08 to a 3.45 ratio? Was it very noticable?
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Old 17-03-2007, 07:17 PM   #19
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When I changed the speedo gear, it was then that I realised that my car accelerated a bit more, but im always looking at my speedo and rpm so it was heaps different to me. Since its auto the lock up/one way clutch engages at 70km/h instead of 80km/h, which is good because the streets around where I live is all 70km/h. RPM at 100km/h went from 1850 to 2100.
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