entry help

old fordnut · 05-02-2010, 06:58 PM

OK both remotes wont unlock the car and the key wont work because the little clip holding the shaft in for the locking mechanism broke. How do I get into my car?
Tried new batteries and it still wont work. the little red light on the remote goes on but its alittle weak? do I need new ones? how much from ford? Urgent help please car is suck at train station

FTE72 · 05-02-2010, 07:07 PM

Try taking the back off the remote and press the battery in at the same time as trying to unlock the car.
or get a small wedge of paper to jam between the backing and the battery to make the connection more firm.
battery terminal connection to the PCB board is in need of a resolder.
Hope that is your problem fix.

Mr Hardware · 05-02-2010, 07:32 PM

Hey old fordnut.
This is an extremely sucky scenario. If the red light is activating then there's obviously a connection with the battery to the PCB and hence is sending the signal. If you're not getting any response from the car, then you're in a bad way. Quite simply, you'll have to break into the car. There are a few ways to relatively easily break into AUs, none of which I'm not going to discuss on this public forum. Once you're in the vehicle it'll be a relatively simple situation of reprogramming the remotes and then driving to your nearest place to fix your door rod issue that you probably should have fixed when it broke, but i think you probably already realise that.

old fordnut · 05-02-2010, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr Hardware

Hey old fordnut.
This is an extremely sucky scenario. If the red light is activating then there's obviously a connection with the battery to the PCB and hence is sending the signal. If you're not getting any response from the car, then you're in a bad way. Quite simply, you'll have to break into the car. There are a few ways to relatively easily break into AUs, none of which I'm not going to discuss on this public forum. Once you're in the vehicle it'll be a relatively simple situation of reprogramming the remotes and then driving to your nearest place to fix your door rod issue that you probably should have fixed when it broke, but i think you probably already realise that.

yeah I sure do realise that now. stupid ford why didnt they put a key hole in the boot. So is anyone going to tell me privately how to break in without damaging the car? This is my only car and I need it.

Mr Hardware · 05-02-2010, 08:14 PM

RACV or emulate what RACV would do with implements from your shed.
And i'm sure if 'this is your only car and you need it' you wouldn't not have RACV cover

however if you did i suppose you wouldn't be asking you'd already be at home happy and drinking a cold one by now.

which i'm about to do at the local club with the mrs!

cya!

Bushbasher · 05-02-2010, 10:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr Hardware

RACV or emulate what RACV would do with implements from your shed.
And i'm sure if 'this is your only car and you need it' you wouldn't not have RACV cover

however if you did i suppose you wouldn't be asking you'd already be at home happy and drinking a cold one by now.

which i'm about to do at the local club with the mrs!

cya!

OUCH!!,

Ya might have at least quietly sent him a PM ya bit meany,

old fordnut · 05-02-2010, 10:05 PM

I've seen what RACV do with opening cars and they usually end up with bent door frames and scratches all over the place. I've had there cover before and its a complete waste of time.
All I asked for was for some help not some smart **** comments from certain ppl.

Windsor220 · 05-02-2010, 10:10 PM

So were the remotes working previously? If they are lighting up then just keep trying them. You might get lucky.

You can buy a break in kit similar to what RAC use through Repco/Coventries. Probably looking around $100.

lubby1 · 05-02-2010, 10:31 PM

Have you tried calling ford they may be able to assist you through it? or at the very least send someone out to get you going again im sure its not the first time they would have had this request.

Mr Hardware · 05-02-2010, 10:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bushbasher

OUCH!!,

Ya might have at least quietly sent him a PM ya bit meany,

Reading back on this it does come across harsh - not the intention.

I've done the RACV trick on a few cabs and i've never bent a doorframe nor scratched anything. Wrap what you use in a towel is the secret.

JC · 05-02-2010, 11:48 PM

Does your remote open the boot? If so, that means the central locking system works, but maybe just the door open button doesn't. Take the back off the remote, and press down on battery cage to esnure good power contact and then try button with cover off.

If that doesn't work, I've sent you an email (couldn't send PM as your inbox is full).

TheInterceptor · 06-02-2010, 12:32 AM

My remote unlock button refuses to work... These remotes are just simply dodgy imo.......

No spare key??

JC · 06-02-2010, 01:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheInterceptor

My remote unlock button refuses to work... These remotes are just simply dodgy imo.......

No spare key??

The rod is broken, so key won't work.

Take your remote apart and scrape the green gunk off the contacts of the button, and it will work (or at least, it should work).

old fordnut · 06-02-2010, 09:08 AM

Thanks JC email received so I will try this morning. No the boot doesnt open either otherwise I would have got in that way.

Pretty sure you have to prove your in the industry to buy the break in kit. Snap on sell them too.

old fordnut · 06-02-2010, 02:35 PM

ALL good got into the car and found that the missus had left the headlights on all day and of course the battery went flat. She uses the car to get to the train station and I get a lift to work.

now I have another problem. just got home from the shops and the supid central locking is locking and unlocking itself. how do I fix this? is this common?

Mr Hardware · 06-02-2010, 06:42 PM

reprogram the remotes and see how you go.

JC · 07-02-2010, 03:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old fordnut

ALL good got into the car and found that the missus had left the headlights on all day and of course the battery went flat. She uses the car to get to the train station and I get a lift to work.

now I have another problem. just got home from the shops and the supid central locking is locking and unlocking itself. how do I fix this? is this common?

My method worked Ok then? No damage to car? How long did it take?

Locking and unlocking is usually a pointer to a faulty door actuator, or if the horn also beeps, maybe one door is not quite closed properly so when you lock it, it unlocks.

old fordnut · 07-02-2010, 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JC

My method worked Ok then? No damage to car? How long did it take?

Locking and unlocking is usually a pointer to a faulty door actuator, or if the horn also beeps, maybe one door is not quite closed properly so when you lock it, it unlocks.

yeah no worries. took about 10 mins. All the doors are closed. I think I'm just going to buy new remotes any way and then replace the actuators as I can afford them.

Thx for all your help everyone

JC · 07-02-2010, 02:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old fordnut

yeah no worries. took about 10 mins. All the doors are closed. I think I'm just going to buy new remotes any way and then replace the actuators as I can afford them.

Thx for all your help everyone

Scary-easy isn't it?

Good luck with getting it to stay locked.

AMB · 07-02-2010, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old fordnut

............now I have another problem. just got home from the shops and the supid central locking is locking and unlocking itself. how do I fix this? is this common?........

When I had this problem, I found that it was a bad connection in the left front door actuator plug. The actuator would work, but make the whole system cycle, so just hearing the actuator working didn't mean it was working properly. Take the door skin off and you will find the 4 pin plug/connector. I jiggle it around and it would make the doors cycle. I cleaned up the contacts, and bent the pins a bit so that they contact each other better, and all fixed. Maybe try this on the front doors first before buying new actuators -cos you might end up believing that the new actuators fixed the problem, but all you did was restore a good contact in the connector.