What makes a good oil good?

[Sabantien]

Originally Posted by Tassie f100

It does appear to me that these people who mollycoddle engines and only use the "correct" oil seem to have all sorts of problems whereas those that use any cheap stuff they can pick up at the time and change oil when they get around to it get 3-4 hundred thousand kms without any problems.Maybe oil is oil and as such it doesn't really matter what gets put in the sump

I reckon what's happening is the people putting in anything and getting lots of kms are driving the car into the ground. It's not that they're not getting problems, it's they're not caring as much as the people who mollycoddle.

A car running is not necessarily a car running well.

[petered]

Some years ago I had the opportunity (through business) to visit the Castrol Technology Centre in the UK. This was before BP bought Castrol. The work they were doing on lubricants was amazing as was the skill of their scientists. My lasting impression was "oils ain't oils". The importance of running good quality lubricants AND CHANGING THEM REGULARLY was reinforced with credible technical information. I completely understand why BP bought Burmah / Castrol as it was 'leading edge'.

I still only use Castrol and adhere to regular servicing. Simple lesson that has thus far served well.

[damo76]

A good oil not only lubricates it cleans aswell.
I was always told a cheap oil does a cheap job.
Have always used penrite, they don't advertise.

[Silver Ghia]

Originally Posted by damo76

A good oil not only lubricates it cleans aswell.
I was always told a cheap oil does a cheap job.
Have always used penrite, they don't advertise.

Never had a dirty throttle body with both my BA Ghia and FG XR50 when using Penrite HPR5. Clean as a whistle, due to cleaner pcv vapours. This is just one of several differences I've noticed since using this oil over the last 8 or so years.

[Jastel]

In the cabs I have always used whatever is on sale at Supercheap/Autobarn/Repco etc, 5 litres of whatever brand so long as its SM/N and somewhere in the range of 10w50.
A car with 300000+ kms on it may burn a bit and may benefit from a 50W oil.

Of course I change it every 3 weeks so its not in there long.
If you are only doing it once a year, spend another $20 on a fancy oil.

The only difference in any engine I have pulled apart was a friend only used Mobil 1 as he knew a Mobil guy or something, his engine inside was as clean and worn as mine but it was all stained a redish purple colour??

This was back in the E series days...in any modern Ford you should never need to remove the head anyway....

[sprintman1]

Originally Posted by Jastel

In the cabs I have always used whatever is on sale at Supercheap/Autobarn/Repco etc, 5 litres of whatever brand so long as its SM/N and somewhere in the range of 10w50.
A car with 300000+ kms on it may burn a bit and may benefit from a 50W oil.

Of course I change it every 3 weeks so its not in there long.
If you are only doing it once a year, spend another $20 on a fancy oil.

The only difference in any engine I have pulled apart was a friend only used Mobil 1 as he knew a Mobil guy or something, his engine inside was as clean and worn as mine but it was all stained a redish purple colour??

This was back in the E series days...in any modern Ford you should never need to remove the head anyway....

A thin 50W is almost a 40W so should be OK but I wouldn't want a thick 50W in a later model Ford.

[belieber_]

Do good oils keep contaminants in the pan rather than ciculating them?

[sprintman1]

Originally Posted by belieber_

Do good oils keep contaminants in the pan rather than ciculating them?

No. Larger particles are hopefully removed by the filter.

[johnydep]

Originally Posted by MattSAU2XR8

I would be interested if anyone has done a UOI at different oil change intervals for a Ford L6 to see if there is a point at which the metal starts to increase markedly, i.e. oil no longer protecting engine as well as when it was new?

Just my thoughts though.

Matt

http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=6663

[G RUSH]

Originally Posted by TheInterceptor

Is it worth spending over $50 for oil when there's the same alleged kind for half cost? What makes them worth so much?
There is also Coles brand but I wouldn't even consider that.

This statement pretty much sums up a lot of my attitude to the cheaper oils - personally I wouldn't consider anything midrange, just like you don't consider the real cheap and nasty's from Coles.

In any case, there's lots of reading on this site and even though it's US based, there's a lot of articles and forum info there to gain a broader understanding of motor oils:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

If your car is a normal A to B commuter, barely ever pushed to its limits, then you're probably going to be fine with midrange stuff. Not sure about Coles brand - it might also work for your Sunday BBQ?! haha

For everyone else, there's always Penrite! Buy it when Repchode or Supersh!t are having 25% off sales and it's fine. Still cheaper than whatever it is dealers charge nowadays.

[cram_it_frog]

I personally think one of the biggest mistakes made with oil is either people follow manufacturers time schedule or follow what a mate suggests

the type and make and time you change should be set by your style and type of driving

if you do taxi or parcel delivery in a city with high ks but stop start

compared to a person who does the same but all country ks

or

like me low ks all country ks

or

a simple thing like towing a trailer around ever day can change things


all with the same model and make of car but each require different type of maintenance program to suite conditions

I use DuraBlend 10W-40 once a year it cost s a little more but with this and my average 6 k a year is good I save also by not doing it twice a year which I was planning

I also change the radiator coolant every 12 months and I use distilled water from the shops because I live in the outback and summer temps are hot

Also we have crap water I would not even give it to the dogs


but this would not suite some one in the city with lots of stop start type driving you would need to do it twice a year at least to keep it running smooth

[XG_Falcon]

I always judge my oils based on how good they make me feel when I dip my bald head into the container and rub it all all over another person's body.

There are other testing methods but imo this is the only sure-fire way.

[marty351]

Originally Posted by XG_Falcon

I always judge my oils based on how good they make me feel when I dip my bald head into the container and rub it all all over another person's body.

There are other testing methods but imo this is the only sure-fire way.

I judge my oil by how it feels on my dipstick. It's always good!

[99AUXR]

Originally Posted by marty351

I judge my oil by how it feels on my dipstick. It's always good!

Hey hey keep it PG rated

[SpoolMan]

We have member here who gets his oil checked by a lab on every service since 2011.
Its a good read.
http://fordforums.com.au/showthread....ght=oil+sample

[Sox]

Originally Posted by XG_Falcon

I always judge my oils based on how good they make me feel when I dip my bald head into the container and rub it all all over another person's body.

There are other testing methods but imo this is the only sure-fire way.

That made my day...

[99AUXR]

Originally Posted by G RUSH

This statement pretty much sums up a lot of my attitude to the cheaper oils - personally I wouldn't consider anything midrange, just like you don't consider the real cheap and nasty's from Coles.

In any case, there's lots of reading on this site and even though it's US based, there's a lot of articles and forum info there to gain a broader understanding of motor oils:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

If your car is a normal A to B commuter, barely ever pushed to its limits, then you're probably going to be fine with midrange stuff. Not sure about Coles brand - it might also work for your Sunday BBQ?! haha

For everyone else, there's always Penrite! Buy it when Repchode or Supersh!t are having 25% off sales and it's fine. Still cheaper than whatever it is dealers charge nowadays.

Finally finished reading, increased my understanding and filled in some gaps but pretty much had my theory correct on using the 0W-40 in my F6, especially cause my pressure/rpm is very close to that. What a big read though...

[marty351]

Originally Posted by 99AUXR

Hey hey keep it PG rated

Regular oil changes means a clean dipstick, a real car lover wouldn't have it any other way.

[ebv8]

i use Gulf Western is all Australian Owned
you still get what you pay for a cheap Gulf Western product is similar to any other cheap oil
I use tuff dog 15w-40 in most on my cars and syn-x-3000 in my GT

[WoodyAU]

This is something you will have to work out for yourself. I usually use the cheapest Gulf Western, usually $10-$15 for four litres from supercheap and change it every 12 months, with no issues. A friend has opened a shop next door to where I work, and sells me the next grade up for $20 for five litres. Both Falcons burn it, over a litre in six months. I also once tried Repco's oil for older engines and it burnt pretty quickly too. I should just use Magnatech, for the extra $30 per year. And don't even ask about which brand filter!
My wifes 10/98 AU1 has 320,000 on the clock and my AU2 ute has 280,000.

[sprintman1]

The 'best oil' is the one with a basestock and additive package that best suits your engine.

[danzvtil]

Has anyone ever gone to buy a $5K secondhand car and been told it has run mobil 1 all its life, to then offer an extra 2k for it??
NEVER. I only do 10K a year in my magna, and change the oil at 7500k but only use $20-$30 whatever is on special, the inside is clean as a whistle.
If you are worried about engine longevity, increase the change frequency, you cant tell me mobil 1 or penrite is 5 x better than Castrol every oil change.

[sprintman1]

Originally Posted by danzvtil

Has anyone ever gone to buy a $5K secondhand car and been told it has run mobil 1 all its life, to then offer an extra 2k for it??
NEVER. I only do 10K a year in my magna, and change the oil at 7500k but only use $20-$30 whatever is on special, the inside is clean as a whistle.
If you are worried about engine longevity, increase the change frequency, you cant tell me mobil 1 or penrite is 5 x better than Castrol every oil change.

I'd take Castrol over Penrite even at a higher price............

[Kingsley]

Whats peoples impressions on Shell HX3 in older engines?

I changed the oil and filter in a stock big block 253 Holden motor 2 weeks ago. It previously had Valvoline 20/50W in it and was reasonably quiet with good oil pressure.
This time I used Shell HX3. The car has engine has far more lifter noise than it ever had before and oil pressure is fluctuating and operating at a lower pressure to the point that I'm seriously entertaining the idea of buying Castrol and re changing the oil tomorrow.

[ebv8]

Originally Posted by superpursuit05

Whats peoples impressions on Shell HX3 in older engines?

I changed the oil and filter in a stock big block 253 Holden motor 2 weeks ago. It previously had Valvoline 20/50W in it and was reasonably quiet with good oil pressure.
This time I used Shell HX3. The car has engine has far more lifter noise than it ever had before and oil pressure is fluctuating and operating at a lower pressure to the point that I'm seriously entertaining the idea of buying Castrol and re changing the oil tomorrow.

try and late model holden v8 oil filter "Z160" , they are smaller and it helps boost oil pressure in older holden V8's
might just help on start up but get oil pressure sooner is always a good thing

[petered]

My Brother's Red 308, stock but in really good order, seems to like Magnitec 10W/40. The Valve Train is noticeably quieter. I run the same oil in my 302 Windsor for exactly the same reason. Tried Shell, Mobil and Valvoline Gold but the Magnitec is considerably smother and quieter.