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Old 31-07-2010, 07:09 PM   #1
ayeyew
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Default What causes brake pads to be permanently pressed against rotor?

My right front brake started making grinding noises yesterday, I noticed that even when i was not braking (particularly at low speed) the grinding noise was still evident, making it seem like the pads were still pressed against the rotor, even when my foot was not on the brake pedal. I bought new pads today, put the girl up and rotated the right front wheel and the grinding noise was evident.

Changed the pads, the inside pad on the right front was bare, but the outside pad on the right front was still very meaty. The inside of the right rotor was severly scratched, i am going to replace them next time i need pads.

The pads on the left were still meaty also, but i replaced them anyway.

After i replaced the pads and put the wheel back on, it was near impossible to make the wheel rotate. I took it for a quick drive (2-3 mins), came back, jacked her up and, yep still damn near impossible to make ther wheel rotate.
I put my hand on the middle of the right rotor and it was hot, the left rotor was not hot at all, so i kind of figure that the pad is pretty much permanently pressed against the rotor.

I lubed up the 2 bolts holding the caliper in, but what could be causing the inside brake pad to be permanently pressed against the rotor

What do i need to do to fix it?

Cheers

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Show: XR6 Kit, Low, RDA Slotted's F&B, Fully Tabouli Sound System, Altezza Tailights (Good ones!)
Go: K&N Pod w/ 3" intake, XR6T Snorkel, Pacie Comp 4480's, 2.5" Cat Back, CMS Stg2 Cam, Custom Tune, Tranny Cooler

Coming..CMS Stg2A Cam, 68mm TB
Later.. 4.5L w/ BOOOOOOOOOOST or XR6T or AUIII XR8 220

Currently:
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Old 31-07-2010, 07:15 PM   #2
sleeper393
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could be the brake piston seized up in the bore , series 1 or 2 au ?
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Old 31-07-2010, 07:20 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ayeyew
My right front brake started making grinding noises yesterday, I noticed that even when i was not braking (particularly at low speed) the grinding noise was still evident, making it seem like the pads were still pressed against the rotor, even when my foot was not on the brake pedal. I bought new pads today, put the girl up and rotated the right front wheel and the grinding noise was evident.

Changed the pads, the inside pad on the right front was bare, but the outside pad on the right front was still very meaty. The inside of the right rotor was severly scratched, i am going to replace them next time i need pads.

The pads on the left were still meaty also, but i replaced them anyway.

After i replaced the pads and put the wheel back on, it was near impossible to make the wheel rotate. I took it for a quick drive (2-3 mins), came back, jacked her up and, yep still damn near impossible to make ther wheel rotate.
I put my hand on the middle of the right rotor and it was hot, the left rotor was not hot at all, so i kind of figure that the pad is pretty much permanently pressed against the rotor.

I lubed up the 2 bolts holding the caliper in, but what could be causing the inside brake pad to be permanently pressed against the rotor

What do i need to do to fix it?

Cheers


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IF YOU CANT FIX IT WITH A SCREWDRIVER OR SHIFTER , F%$K IT with a hammer - Light travels faster than sound.......this is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak!
AU SERIES 3 LIQUID SILVER
BBS MOTORSPORT RIMS , EIBACHS , BILSTEINS , CERAMIC COATED 4499 PACIE'S , 2.5 S/S GENIE SYSTEM , MAGNAFLOWS , METALCAT 200cpsi , CAI MODS
123.4 GROUND TEARING RWKW'S , LOL
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Old 31-07-2010, 10:29 PM   #4
mik
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it might be time for a brake overhaul, rebuilt calipers, brake bleed etc, master cylander? maybe even brake hoses, 10 years is a pretty good service life for these hard working parts imo.
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Old 31-07-2010, 11:21 PM   #5
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Sounds to me the if one pad is meaty and the other is bear it'll be the sliders are jamed which will only make one pad do the braking. As mik said above a complete overhall would be advised.
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Old 01-08-2010, 12:59 AM   #6
ayeyew
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Perhaps time to upgrade to the Series II/III brakes then?

Thaks for advice thus far gentlemen
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1999 Liquid Silver AU
Show: XR6 Kit, Low, RDA Slotted's F&B, Fully Tabouli Sound System, Altezza Tailights (Good ones!)
Go: K&N Pod w/ 3" intake, XR6T Snorkel, Pacie Comp 4480's, 2.5" Cat Back, CMS Stg2 Cam, Custom Tune, Tranny Cooler

Coming..CMS Stg2A Cam, 68mm TB
Later.. 4.5L w/ BOOOOOOOOOOST or XR6T or AUIII XR8 220

Currently:
151kW (165 on other dynos )
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Old 01-08-2010, 01:32 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ayeyew
Perhaps time to upgrade to the Series II/III brakes then?

Thaks for advice thus far gentlemen
As good a time as any!

Do you have any braking issues now though as it does seem like alot of work?
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Old 01-08-2010, 01:38 AM   #8
ayeyew
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No issues now, brakes fine, doesn't pull to the right or anything.

I just imagine the brake pads will wear out in the next 6-8 months or so.

Probably do the AU 2/3 upgrade next time i need pads, as i will need new rotors also, may aswell get the rest done too

I know a mate will help me out with putting it all in, so if i can find a kit cheap enough, it will get done
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1999 Liquid Silver AU
Show: XR6 Kit, Low, RDA Slotted's F&B, Fully Tabouli Sound System, Altezza Tailights (Good ones!)
Go: K&N Pod w/ 3" intake, XR6T Snorkel, Pacie Comp 4480's, 2.5" Cat Back, CMS Stg2 Cam, Custom Tune, Tranny Cooler

Coming..CMS Stg2A Cam, 68mm TB
Later.. 4.5L w/ BOOOOOOOOOOST or XR6T or AUIII XR8 220

Currently:
151kW (165 on other dynos )
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Old 01-08-2010, 11:42 AM   #9
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For the love of all things blue oval, do it now - even if you only pop that caliper back off and free up the jamming slide pin and lube with synthetic caliper slide grease (can pick up at any auto store, even Supacheap carries the stuff...).

Brakes are not something that should be put off until you get around to it - don't forget you are driving 1.5 tonnes of angry AU on S1 brakes that are not real flash even when working properly.......

Cheers

James
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Old 01-08-2010, 11:58 AM   #10
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wise words jimmyd
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