Car Detailing - What products are your go to? - Page 62

hackney · 02-08-2022, 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DJM83

So upon talking to fordo.
The interior in my ute is pretty much like new (apart from shifter that needs replacing soon) and doesnt really get dirty i might look at the colourlock leather milk
image

Thoughts appreciated.

A man after my own ‘heart’! Lovely!Always a pleasure to look @ a well maintained vehicle!I won’t even let my HRV Hybrid out in the rain, that is ‘Freddy’ the Fiesta’s duty!!!

**DFB FGXR6** · 02-08-2022, 07:11 PM

Waxit launched their new version of NV Boost last week; Boost v2.

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/nv-boost-v2

The original formulation was pretty unique for this type of quick detailer/drying aid product.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...-boost-nova-qd

"Boost contains ingredients that fill in molecular coating imperfections that help improve the gloss, slickness and water beading of the surface. It doesn't create a layer over the top which completely changes the look, or the way the car beads, it tries to emulate the characteristics of your coating when it was first applied.

The layer also helps against water spotting, Boost will break down after a PH Neutral wash taking surface contamination off with it, reducing the chances that minerals will etch into the coated surface. Concours Nova Boost is the easiest of the spray coatings to apply, as it effortlessly flashes off with a couple of wipes making it extremely quick to apply."

So, the concept of the product was to provide lubrication during the drying process and adding to the coating without masking it. At the next wash, the product would be removed and the cycle repeats.

Boost v2 is different, more like the rest of these spray sealants used as drying aids. It will add gloss, slickness and protection but unlike v1, it will stay bonded to the paint during the wash process, even when subjected to high pH soaps and chemicals. As a standalone, Boost v2 will give 3 - 6 months of durability. Think of Boost v2 as a watered-down version of NV Nova Jet.

In use, I was never wowed by Boost v1, it was ok but not fantastic. Boost v2 is much nicer to use, offering better gloss, slickness and seems to have more lubrication. Boost v2 is also noticeably cheaper than v1, $35.95 vs $49.95 in 500ml form.

Boost v2 is well worth a look, especially if you already use other NV coatings.

hackney · 02-08-2022, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Waxit launched their new version of NV Boost last week; Boost v2.

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/nv-boost-v2

image

The original formulation was pretty unique for this type of quick detailer/drying aid product.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...-boost-nova-qd

"Boost contains ingredients that fill in molecular coating imperfections that help improve the gloss, slickness and water beading of the surface. It doesn't create a layer over the top which completely changes the look, or the way the car beads, it tries to emulate the characteristics of your coating when it was first applied.

The layer also helps against water spotting, Boost will break down after a PH Neutral wash taking surface contamination off with it, reducing the chances that minerals will etch into the coated surface. Concours Nova Boost is the easiest of the spray coatings to apply, as it effortlessly flashes off with a couple of wipes making it extremely quick to apply."

So, the concept of the product was to provide lubrication during the drying process and adding to the coating without masking it. At the next wash, the product would be removed and the cycle repeats.

image

Boost v2 is different, more like the rest of these spray sealants used as drying aids. It will add gloss, slickness and protection but unlike v1, it will stay bonded to the paint during the wash process, even when subjected to high pH soaps and chemicals. As a standalone, Boost v2 will give 3 - 6 months of durability. Think of Boost v2 as a watered-down version of NV Nova Jet.

In use, I was never wowed by Boost v1, it was ok but not fantastic. Boost v2 is much nicer to use, offering better gloss, slickness and seems to have more lubrication. Boost v2 is also noticeably cheaper than v1, $35.95 vs $49.95 in 500ml form.

Boost v2 is well worth a look, especially if you already use other NV coatings.

‘Boost’ is great stuff!

**DJM83** · 02-08-2022, 07:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Oh, and that interior looks absolutely mint!

Cheers mate appreciate it, and the advice on the interior stuffs.

Quote:

Originally Posted by hackney

A man after my own ‘heart’! Lovely!Always a pleasure to look @ a well maintained vehicle!I won’t even let my HRV Hybrid out in the rain, that is ‘Freddy’ the Fiesta’s duty!!!

Again thanks mate.
She rarely gets driven these days so its pretty easy to maintain.

ford12 · 02-08-2022, 08:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fordomatic

So I just transitioned to carpro reset as my sole car wash. I've always been impressed with it but the price always put me off. Anyway i just bought 4 litres and that will last me for years because it's so concentrated. It's cleaning power is like nothing else ive ever used.

I still have 3.5l of Bowdens Snow Job left and will then transition to NV Snow once the Bowdens crap is gone.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...iant=799687237

Im finding NV snow has a fair bit better cleaning ability than reset.

**fordomatic** · 02-08-2022, 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Breaking that kit down, these are my thoughts -

-Carpro Fabric is a textile protector. Considering you don't have cloth trim, it's use would be limited to carpet and carpet mats. I would skip this.

-Carpro Leather is a ceramic coating, as mentioned, I don't really endorse those products.

-Carpro Inside is an interior all-purpose cleaner. If you don't get the car that dirty, you really won't need to use a cleaner like that. Skip.

-Carpro Perl is an interior/exterior dressing for plastics and rubber. Both work well on interior surfaces, although I prefer 303 Protectant for that role.

The kit also includes towels, applicators and the Capro Inner Scrub mitt. The scrub mitt would be overkill on your interior, it does great work on filthy, neglected interiors though.

Focusing on the chemicals, I would do the following -

Carpro InnerQD - I love this product, it's designed for maintaining an already clean interior and can be used across most surfaces to remove dust and light scuffs. Lemon scented.

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...r&_ss=e&_v=1.0

Carpro Perl or 303 Protectant - I don't use dressings much anymore, when I do I like to grab 303 the most. Perl needs to be diluted for interiors, but can also be used as a tyre dressing.

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/30...1d8e25f1&_ss=r
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...b8dc0494&_ss=r

NV Nourish/Cleanse - these two leather products are very good and could be desirable if you want to reduce your shipping costs by ordering from two suppliers.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...eather-cleaner (Cleaner)
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...ish-leather-qd (Protector)

Otherwise -

Colour Lock Leather Milk Protector- this is an excellent leather protector, easy to use and leaves a lovely matte finish. I would add Mild Leather Cleaner and the Colour Lock brush to your order as well. And probably the application sponges as well depending on what you have.

https://www.colourlockaustralia.com....or-150-ml.html
https://www.colourlockaustralia.com....er-125-ml.html
https://www.colourlockaustralia.com....ing-brush.html
https://www.colourlockaustralia.com....sponges-1.html

Seeing as you like kits, have a look at this one, you want the version for 3+ years old leather. I would still add the cleaning brush to your order -

https://www.colourlockaustralia.com....-care-kit.html

This is so good, i gave him almost exactly the same advice

**fordomatic** · 02-08-2022, 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ford12

Im finding NV snow has a fair bit better cleaning ability than reset.

Yeh, they didnt have it in 4L though, so doesn't make it cost effective at all. I generally get most of the grime off with the foam gun and then rinse before washing which is why i'll move to Snow for the foam gun next. Reset gives me that better finish as i dont need an amazing cleaning ability.

If i only buy 1 litre then its $1.57 per wash, if i wait for the 4l to be back in stock it's 36 cents. With a fleet of 6 cars it adds up quick

**DFB FGXR6** · 04-08-2022, 07:22 PM

prydey · 04-08-2022, 08:04 PM

Got the email. Thinking of getting the carpro interior plus cloth/mitt.

What's that like?

**DFB FGXR6** · 04-08-2022, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prydey

Got the email. Thinking of getting the carpro interior plus cloth/mitt.

What's that like?

This one -

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...nnerscrub-mitt

I have not used Carpro Inside (I know, I'm surprised too!

), from what I can gather, it's an interior cleaner that will be safe for use across multiple surfaces when compared to stronger alkaline APC's.

The Inner Scrub is brilliant.

This scrub mitt has thousands of little firm bristles, allowing it to deep clean heavily soiled interior surfaces including plastics, leather and fabric.

To use, spray your cleaner into the mitt and a touch more on the surface to be cleaned, then go to town. Follow up with a clean, dry towel to remove the cleaner and dirt emulsion.

I'm using the brilliant P&S Express here -

It's really good at cleaning grotty steering wheels -

I even found it handy at cleaning out speaker grills -

After use, wash it like any other towel or mitt.

I only use it on really dirty interiors as it is more abrasive than a microfiber towel or mitt. Good to have at the ready though.

**fordomatic** · 04-08-2022, 08:53 PM

I like carpro inside, I use it as an interior cleaner often, mainly because the cars i detail are older and dirty. Inside is great, I generally use is 1:10. For leather i use it 1:6 for a strong leather cleaner.

I really like colourlock leather cleaner but when i was detailing a couple of BMW's I needed something more cost effective and moved to inside. It does the job very well and I use it in a foaming bottle and mainly use it with a brush for cleaning.

prydey · 04-08-2022, 09:02 PM

Thanks for the reviews of the carpro inside + mitt.

I normally just use a damp cloth for the interior and inside seemed like a nice gentle product for mainly dusty dashes etc.

ford12 · 04-08-2022, 09:31 PM

Looking for some advice.
I've tried using duragloss 951, scholl sw 20 and lately bead maker. ( All as a drying aid )
All three leave a smear.
Have to really get stuck in to remove any smears they create, to me this defeats the purpose of using them.
Am i asking to much, not using them properly or are they the wrong product ?
All I'm after is something to add a little more protection and help dry the car.
Products being used is on black paint.
Car was ceramic coated now just wax. Coating either gave the same result.
Again thanks in advance

**DFB FGXR6** · 04-08-2022, 10:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prydey

Thanks for the reviews of the carpro inside + mitt.

I normally just use a damp cloth for the interior and inside seemed like a nice gentle product for mainly dusty dashes etc.

Damp cloth is generally all that is needed for well maintained interiors.

However, I think Carpro InnerQD would be ideal for you. I use this a lot and really like it, can be used across most surfaces to clean away dust and light scuffs. InnerQD will leave a small amount of protection behind but nothing like 303 Protectant or Perl, very OE looking and feeling. Has an assertive lemon scent.

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...r&_ss=e&_v=1.0

Another similar product I like for this is Meguiar's Quick Interior Detailer. This does everything InnerQD does, but with a slightly less smooth application and a lighter scent. Available everywhere too, in the Detailer range and consumer range (473ml & wipes). Surprisingly, the Carpro product is better value at $27-$30 for 500ml vs $28 for 473ml.

https://www.repco.com.au/en/car-care...616/p/A9287455
https://www.repco.com.au/en/car-care...901/p/A5466215
https://www.repco.com.au/en/car-care...600/p/A9452365

These sort of interior quick detailers are alcohol based so tend to evaporate away without leaving streaks, that also allows them to be used on gauge clusters and ICC screens.

From memory, you have a bottle of Carpro Ech02, this can also be used for interior cleaning/dusting. I know of many who like to use it as such. I would use the quick detailer dilution for this role, 1:25.

prydey · 04-08-2022, 10:35 PM

I do have Ech20. I forget how versatile it is.

I remember reading a range of dilutions and a list of uses somewhere. Was that on here?

**DFB FGXR6** · 04-08-2022, 10:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ford12

Looking for some advice.
I've tried using duragloss 951, scholl sw 20 and lately bead maker. ( All as a drying aid )
All three leave a smear.
Have to really get stuck in to remove any smears they create, to me this defeats the purpose of using them.
Am i asking to much, not using them properly or are they the wrong product ?
All I'm after is something to add a little more protection and help dry the car.
Products being used is on black paint.
Car was ceramic coated now just wax. Coating either gave the same result.
Again thanks in advance

You are not being unrealistic; something is not quite right in the mix.

Bead Maker is known to cause streaking, although this is something I have not really encountered. Spray waxes can also be a bit temperamental when used as a drying aid, for that reason, I would focus on perfecting Bead Maker.

With Bead Maker, how much product are you using? Also, are you applying the product when the car is still fully wet, as in you haven't used a blower first?

For me, I blow the car down first to remove the majority of water. The remaining water (very minimal) will then be joined by 2 - 4 sprays of product per panel and then worked in. I also prime the towel with a similar amount at the very beginning to help the process start. If you don't have or want to use a blower, try using a large drying towel to remove the bulk, before following up with a smaller towel and the above Bead Maker procedure.

That process I would use with any similar product for a drying aid.

A couple of products that I have found to be easy to work with would include P&S Paint Gloss (no protection, just gloss), Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Detailer and NV Boost v2.

**DFB FGXR6** · 04-08-2022, 10:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prydey

I do have Ech20. I forget how versatile it is.

I remember reading a range of dilutions and a list of uses somewhere. Was that on here?

Could have been me, but it's also listed on the Waxit Product listing -

500ml makes up to 2 Gallons of (1:15) Waterless Spray
500ml makes up to 3 1/4 Gallons of Quick Detailer (1:25)
500ml makes up to 5 1/4 Gallons of Clay Lubricant (1:40)
500ml makes up to 26 1/2 Gallons of Rinse-less Wash (1:200)

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ca...h&_ss=e&_v=1.0

**DFB FGXR6** · 06-08-2022, 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Waxit launched their new version of NV Boost last week; Boost v2.

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/nv-boost-v2

image

The original formulation was pretty unique for this type of quick detailer/drying aid product.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...-boost-nova-qd

"Boost contains ingredients that fill in molecular coating imperfections that help improve the gloss, slickness and water beading of the surface. It doesn't create a layer over the top which completely changes the look, or the way the car beads, it tries to emulate the characteristics of your coating when it was first applied.

The layer also helps against water spotting, Boost will break down after a PH Neutral wash taking surface contamination off with it, reducing the chances that minerals will etch into the coated surface. Concours Nova Boost is the easiest of the spray coatings to apply, as it effortlessly flashes off with a couple of wipes making it extremely quick to apply."

So, the concept of the product was to provide lubrication during the drying process and adding to the coating without masking it. At the next wash, the product would be removed and the cycle repeats.

image

Boost v2 is different, more like the rest of these spray sealants used as drying aids. It will add gloss, slickness and protection but unlike v1, it will stay bonded to the paint during the wash process, even when subjected to high pH soaps and chemicals. As a standalone, Boost v2 will give 3 - 6 months of durability. Think of Boost v2 as a watered-down version of NV Nova Jet.

In use, I was never wowed by Boost v1, it was ok but not fantastic. Boost v2 is much nicer to use, offering better gloss, slickness and seems to have more lubrication. Boost v2 is also noticeably cheaper than v1, $35.95 vs $49.95 in 500ml form.

Boost v2 is well worth a look, especially if you already use other NV coatings.

NV Boost v2 after a light shower..............

**DFB FGXR6** · 06-08-2022, 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mulva

What would you use on the inside of a perspex windscreen to stop your supercar fogging up?

Kind regards,

BJR

Carpro Fog Fight would be my choice, but it's hard to go past a rag on a stick!

https://store.primefinish.com.au/col...og-fight-100ml

**DFB FGXR6** · 07-08-2022, 04:54 PM

Over the last couple of years, I have gained a lot of knowledge surrounding chemicals and how they work to do certain tasks, chemical pH readings in particular.

Any chance to learn more about chemicals I tend to consume as soon as I can...........perhaps that's why I was listening to a podcast on the subject while doing something very unrelated; gardening.

The latest Rag Company Q&A with chemist Dave Phillips from P&S was an interesting listen. This content can be either viewed via Youtube or from your podcast streaming service.

A couple of takeaways for me included how Bead Maker was designed to work on a wide range of coatings, not just the P&S range. And something I have heard before, but confirmation that Brake Buster was primarily designed to be used on its own and not diluted.

If you don't already, the Q&A Podcast is a fountain of information and well worth listening to.

Late braker · 07-08-2022, 10:21 PM

I would just like to know what is a good basic polish not necessarily cut and polish just a basic reliable polish that I can use every 6 months or so? I have used a spray on Turtle product called Ice or something in the past in a blue bottle which beaded water pretty well but it doesn’t seem to be available anymore. I use Mothers protectant inside on dash, trims etc and I find it good. What are the Mothers ones like? The step 1- I’m not sure I have the need or time to do the whole 3 steps. Would like to try the Bowdens products but the range is bewilderingly large- I’m not sure what I need.

**DFB FGXR6** · 07-08-2022, 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Late braker

I would just like to know what is a good basic polish not necessarily cut and polish just a basic reliable polish that I can use every 6 months or so? I have used a spray on Turtle product called Ice or something in the past in a blue bottle which beaded water pretty well but it doesn’t seem to be available anymore. I use Mothers protectant inside on dash, trims etc and I find it good. What are the Mothers ones like? The step 1- I’m not sure I have the need or time to do the whole 3 steps. Would like to try the Bowdens products but the range is bewilderingly large- I’m not sure what I need.

In terms of the word "polish", what are you referring to.

What I mean by that is, do you want something to remove scratches and hazing (a polish or cutting compound), or do want something to add some gloss and protection (wax, sealant or coating).

If you want to actually "polish" every 6 months but not necessarily a "cut and polish", I would look into a cleaner wax from Meguiars -

https://www.meguiars.com.au/product/cleaner-wax-paste/

If you want something that's easy to apply which will boost gloss and provides some protection, I would look at Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Detailer -

https://www.meguiars.com.au/product/...amic-detailer/

**GO FURTHER** · 07-08-2022, 11:09 PM

Apart from having a nicely detailed car on the outside and interior, there's something particularly satisfying, in having a clean and detailed engine bay to match.

Many feel... What's the point?... Nobody is going to see under the hood.

But it's like washing (and maybe detailing) your private parts... Not many are going to see it, but you feel better knowing it's clean and tidy.

So for my "engine bay hygiene", I first get out all the brushes I think I will need to get into every nook and cranny.

My go-to cleaner & degreaser is Chemtech CT14.

A water-soluble degreaser that contains no hydrocarbons and is biodegradable.
Many other degreasers are highly caustic in nature, which can cause damage to some metals and surfaces, such as paint, during the degreasing process.

Chemtech is Alkaline Salt based, so you can use it without fear of damaging the item that is being cleaned.
It is also non-flammable and non-volatile, so it is very safe to use.

I mix it at 1 part to 20 parts water and apply it using a plastic spray bottle.
Spray it on then agitate it into all the crevices and surfaces using the appropriate brushes, allowing it to dwell for a few minutes.

Then rinse off lightly using a hose and trigger spray head with low water pressure only.

(I never use my high-pressure washer to clean engine bays, as it can force water into delicate electrical components and connectors).

I like to work in sections, starting from the top and working my way down the bay, rinsing each section as I go.

For the underside of the hood and some other surfaces, I like Bowden's "Orange Agent" if they are not particularly greasy or overly caked in dirt.

To dry the engine bay and to get most of the water out of all the parts and crevices I use my electric blower, then dry off the rest of the water residue with some microfibre cloths.

Once dry, I like to apply Bowden's "Vinyl Revival", which is their recommended protectant for engine bays rather than their other product called "Vinyl care".

It is designed to restore depth and colour to your engine bay plastics, rubbers, and vinyl parts.

Being Silicone and solvent-free, it leaves a mid-sheen finish and a gorgeous lustre over the surfaces, without any greasiness or slipperiness.

For the painted engine cover, the underside of the hood and other painted metal surfaces, I finish them off with a quick coating of Meguiar's Ultimate Quick wax.

**DFB FGXR6** · 07-08-2022, 11:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GO FURTHER

Apart from having a nicely detailed car on the outside and interior, there's something particularly satisfying, in having a clean and detailed engine bay to match.

Many feel... What's the point?... Nobody is going to see under the hood.

But it's like washing (and maybe detailing) your private parts... Not many are going to see it, but you feel better knowing it's clean and tidy.

image

So for my "engine bay hygiene", I first get out all the brushes I think I will need to get into every nook and cranny.

My go-to cleaner & degreaser is Chemtech CT14.

A water-soluble degreaser that contains no hydrocarbons and is biodegradable.
Many other degreasers are highly caustic in nature, which can cause damage to some metals and surfaces, such as paint, during the degreasing process.

Chemtech is Alkaline Salt based, so you can use it without fear of damaging the item that is being cleaned.
It is also non-flammable and non-volatile, so it is very safe to use.

I mix it at 1 part to 20 parts water and apply it using a plastic spray bottle.
Spray it on then agitate it into all the crevices and surfaces using the appropriate brushes, allowing it to dwell for a few minutes.

Then rinse off lightly using a hose and trigger spray head with low water pressure only.

(I never use my high-pressure washer to clean engine bays, as it can force water into delicate electrical components and connectors).

I like to work in sections, starting from the top and working my way down the bay, rinsing each section as I go.

image

For the underside of the hood and some other surfaces, I like Bowden's "Orange Agent" if they are not particularly greasy or overly caked in dirt.

image

To dry the engine bay and to get most of the water out of all the parts and crevices I use my electric blower, then dry off the rest of the water residue with some microfibre cloths.

Once dry, I like to apply Bowden's "Vinyl Revival", which is their recommended protectant for engine bays rather than their other product called "Vinyl care".

It is designed to restore depth and colour to your engine bay plastics, rubbers, and vinyl parts.

Being Silicone and solvent-free, it leaves a mid-sheen finish and a gorgeous lustre over the surfaces, without any greasiness or slipperiness.

image

For the painted engine cover, the underside of the hood and other painted metal surfaces, I finish them off with a quick coating of Meguiar's Ultimate Quick wax.

image

image

A clean engine bay is a happy engine bay!!

Key thing with engines bays is a little but often. I always wipe the engine bay over with a quick detailer or waterless wash after every wash, helping limit the buildup of dust over time.

prydey · 07-08-2022, 11:42 PM

I love seeing those super clean engine bays, and I see all the pics of fully soaped up bay, and then getting washed down with a hose, but I'm still not sure I could bring myself to do that too mine. I'm just too paranoid of the electrical side of things. Knowing my luck, something would get wet that wasn't meant to.

I'd love to do it though. Is it really as risk free as it looks or are there special precautions I would need to take? My Terry is diesel so I guess the risks are slightly less already.

Top_Ghia · 07-08-2022, 11:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prydey

I love seeing those super clean engine bays, and I see all the pics of fully soaped up bay, and then getting washed down with a hose, but I'm still not sure I could bring myself to do that too mine. I'm just too paranoid of the electrical side of things. Knowing my luck, something would get wet that wasn't meant to.

I'd love to do it though. Is it really as risk free as it looks or are there special precautions I would need to take? My Terry is diesel so I guess the risks are slightly less already.

In the 2 dealerships I’ve worked at every engine bay got pressure washed every service. 99% of the time it was fine. The other 1% was generally resolved pretty quick with compressed air and crc.
Early Barras were the most susceptible to getting water around the ignition coils.

Don’t be scared to spray some degreaser around and give it a scrub. You won’t hurt it.

prydey · 08-08-2022, 12:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Top_Ghia

In the 2 dealerships I’ve worked at every engine bay got pressure washed every service. 99% of the time it was fine. The other 1% was generally resolved pretty quick with compressed air and crc.
Early Barras were the most susceptible to getting water around the ignition coils.

Don’t be scared to spray some degreaser around and give it a scrub. You won’t hurt it.

Thanks for the vote of confidence. My car goes in for some work on Thursday(timing belt etc) . I'm one of these weird people that like to always present a clean car so might think about it early this week.

I don't have any degreaser as such. I do have brake buster, otherwise I'll just use car wash. Maybe the Ech20 might work also?

**GO FURTHER** · 08-08-2022, 12:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prydey

I love seeing those super clean engine bays, and I see all the pics of fully soaped up bay, and then getting washed down with a hose, but I'm still not sure I could bring myself to do that too mine. I'm just too paranoid of the electrical side of things. Knowing my luck, something would get wet that wasn't meant to.

I'd love to do it though. Is it really as risk free as it looks or are there special precautions I would need to take? My Terry is diesel so I guess the risks are slightly less already.

If you are going to spray your engine bay with water... Always spray "downwards" from the top, like rain falls... Never shooting upwards, or holding the pressure gun pointing upwards.

That said, I never use a high-pressure washer which can force water into electricals.... It's not needed if you are using a degreaser and agitating it with brushes.

Simply rinse off the degreaser with a garden hose connected to a gentle spray shower head trigger gun.

If you are really concerned about the electricals like the fuse box, etc... Simply wrap them in plastic bags with rubber bands or aluminium foil moulded around it.

**DFB FGXR6** · 08-08-2022, 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prydey

Thanks for the vote of confidence. My car goes in for some work on Thursday(timing belt etc) . I'm one of these weird people that like to always present a clean car so might think about it early this week.

I don't have any degreaser as such. I do have brake buster, otherwise I'll just use car wash. Maybe the Ech20 might work also?

I was terrified of introducing water to an engine bay for a long time. When a situation arose that needed water in the mix, I found my confidence. As mentioned, don't focus on one spot for too long and always downward. Some cars are more protected than others, you may decide to cover up your battery if exposed. In my case here, I had to cover the battery and air filter pod using a plastic bay. I would later lay a towel over these to weigh the plastic down. It pained me to do this, but it taught me how to do it.

Unless there has been an oil leak or similar, most modern cars won't need a degreaser on the engine bay. Although APC or some car wash soap mixed up in a spray bottle is useful.

By far the easiest way to clean an engine bay is this -

Rinse the engine bay, the underside of the bonnet and the scuttle. Remove any debris at this point too.

Now spray everything with APC; the engine bay, the underside of the bonnet, the radiator cover and scuttle.

Then agitate as much as you can reach, including the underside of the bonnet and painted areas. If you are worried about harming these areas, use a microfiber towel or wash mitt instead. I use wheel brushes for this job, the bristled EZ-Detail brushes are invaluable for this job.

Follow this with a thorough rinse to remove the APC residue.

Now the fun part. While still wet, cover everything with either Meguiar's Hyper Dressing or Koch Chemie Motor Plast. It really needs to be those as they work with water and self-level.

https://www.repco.com.au/en/car-care...032/p/A5576809
https://detailingshed.com.au/product...5bfa6a19&_ss=r

Now close the bonnet and you are done! Walk away.

In some cases, I will help things along with some compressed air or a leaf blower to dry up any pooled water. Running the engine for 10 min to generate some heat can also help. Otherwise, all you have to do is wait a few hours and come back with a towel to remove any high spots, although quite often, there won't be any.

As mentioned earlier, I find a regular wipe down after each wash negates the need to clean an engine bay like this. But for cars that actually get driven, yes I am aware my cars are garage queens, then the above method is quick and easy to do. I would once spend hours doing this job with some quick detailer and APC.

This video I post a lot, but it puts my pics into motion so well...............and it's a Ford as well

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**DFB FGXR6** · 08-08-2022, 09:14 PM

Obsessed Garage Drying Aid doing a splendid job on my Mustang..............