3 inch intake piping

[WannabeXP]

Hey Everyone
So i got a 3 inch alloy intercooler pipe cheap, So im going to put it between the airbox and the throttle body. Did a mock fit but im not sure how i am going to seal it in?
Has anyone thought up a brilliant contraption to hold it in?
Didnt notice how restrictive the adapter really was on the air box! Its like half the size of the new pipe!!!
Cheers Jason

[WannabeXP]

Also are the fan belt covers people have(see picture) standard on an EF?
http://www.fordforums.com.au/photos/...Engine_Bay.jpg
Im trying to hunt one down but dont know what theyre off
Apologies for the double post
Cheers Jason

[bartsau]

The fan belt covers are only found on AU series 1 or ealier such as the e series as after series 1 they went tight and made a cheaper plastic surround for just the power steering pump. Try your local wreckers i would say. I swapped mine with sisters Series 1 forte and she still hasn't realised yet

Cheers, Rhys

[WannabeXP]

Haha, thats the way
if only my sister had an AU
*Scratches chin
Anybody know about the intake piping??
Cheers Jason

[bartsau]

From what have read seen and looked at i would say a silicone joiner would be your best bet. That with a couple of hose clamps should do the job pretty well.

[Travisty FTT]

Anyone know what the benefit of the double intake system attached to the throttle body in that picture is?

[frd906]

stuff all really. alot of people get rid of it

[Uncle_Ken]

[QUOTE

Is this what you mean??

I have this

3" pipe from Air box

I had 3 goes, 1 PVC, 2 Felx pipe and 3 (and final 3" exhaust pipe painted matt black.

I used a large ring clamp to hold it down

3. 3" exhaust pipe

UK[/QUOTE]

[Stattic]

Make a bigger hole in the airbox and use sickaflex (the rubber they use to seal roof penetrations)

[The Monty]

Just use silicone joiners and hose clamps.

[WannabeXP]

Yeah thats what i mean UK
But i want to take off the restrictive adapter thingo that is bolted to the airbox,
My Pipe fits nicely but i thought silicon or sickflex wouldnt hold properly. Ie when taking off the airbox lid?
From your picture UK i just have a 3inch piece of alluminium from the flex joint to the airbox.
I guess ill have a go with some silicon to seal and hold it in and see what the outcome is!
Cheers for the help guys!

[Uncle_Ken]

Originally Posted by WannabeXP

Yeah thats what i mean UK
But i want to take off the restrictive adapter thingo that is bolted to the airbox,
My Pipe fits nicely but i thought silicon or sickflex wouldnt hold properly. Ie when taking off the airbox lid?
From your picture UK i just have a 3inch piece of alluminium from the flex joint to the airbox.
I guess ill have a go with some silicon to seal and hold it in and see what the outcome is!
Cheers for the help guys!

If you look closely at the box you can see the PVC pipe I used as a joiner. It very tight and I didn't use any glue. When I take off the lid, I leave the pipe in and disconnect it from the flexable link. Its a bit fiddly but I don't take the lid of much
UK

[Stattic]

No if you let the silicone cure over 24 hours it won't break from that

[WannabeXP]

Sweet! Thanks for your help!
Mondays the day! Dont need my car for a while then
Props to you guys!!

[Uncle_Ken]

One more thing. I had already bought a K&N filter (flat). If you have a standard paper filter I would recomend you get a hi flow pod. It will impact on how you connect the 3 inch pipe. There are several workshops builds to show how it can be done.
UK

[WannabeXP]

Ah yeah i will look into that!!!
Thanks for the sweet advice UK

[Jimmyd]

Did the Ghia last weekend - I wanted to see if it really made a difference. Being a cheap, tight, stingy bugga and not a big fan of Pod filters I figured I could do it really cheap while not having if flopping around under the bonnet - heres how I did it -

Remove airbox lid and solid pipe from flexi pipe.

Remove rubber adaptor from the air box lid, screw down to a piece of timber, run a 3" (75mm) hole saw through it. clean up saw cut and remount onto airbox lid.

Get a 45 degree alloy 3" pipe - cut exactly half way around the bend. Insert into adaptor with a slight upward angle.

Look down the solid pipe form the flexi pipe end - you will see a definate point where the taper from 55mm to 80mm ends - cut off the pipe at this point and throw away the small end (the bit that used to plug into the airbox). smooth out the seam ridges on the outside of the intake pipe (you will see what I mean) to make sure the silicone pipe can seal.

Stretch some 3" (75mm) silicone pipe over the outside of the rigid pipe - its tight but it can be done. Slip other end over the alloy pipe in the airbox, clip airbox lid back on, slip flexi hose back on, bolt down intake pipe to original mount over left hand shockie - pivot alloy pipe around until you get good smooth angles when mounted, tighten clamps.

All done using 1 45 degree pipe, a 75mm clamp and some silicone hose (don't need to use that much, just what I could scrounge and havn't gotten around to trimming down yet...



Cheers

James

[frd906]

ill show you mine, cost me nothing, just 2 small lengths of stainless 3 inch, and 2 of thoses standerd flexable pipes,

[Stattic]

Those flex pipes are bad

[JC]

With this mod, you might gain some induction noise, but you will lose a bit of low down torque but pick up power higher in the rev range. A few years ago Casper probably did the biggest comparison in conjunction with G&D on a dyno, and found that the G&D style box (now made by many diffferent manufacturers), with Pod filter and stand intake piping gave the best overall results. Just saying......

[Jimmyd]

Originally Posted by JC

With this mod, you might gain some induction noise, but you will lose a bit of low down torque but pick up power higher in the rev range. A few years ago Casper probably did the biggest comparison in conjunction with G&D on a dyno, and found that the G&D style box (now made by many diffferent manufacturers), with Pod filter and stand intake piping gave the best overall results. Just saying......

Yep, agree 100% - basic physics that one.

The partial (ie still using flat panel filter) conversion I have done has not increased the induction noise, lets the VCT spin a little more freely and holds hwy speeds with marginally less throttle angle with no apreciable reduction in lower range torque (by my highly scientific bumometer anyway) - as to fuel economy it will take a few weeks to guage that. But keep in mind all this mod did was remove the 55mm restrictor pipe while keeping the rest of the induction system standard apart from a Tickford cold air induction pipe.

Make sure you reset the ECU when/if you make any mods - get full benefit from the mod

Cheers

James

[frd906]

works well enough for me,

[WannabeXP]

Yeah i realise that its going to make not a great deal of difference.
For the ten bucks ive spent im not really complaining.
G&D are what $300? SS Inductions are about the same.
I'm just keeping it cheap. And yeah im not too concerned about Noises.
Next thing is a XR6T Snorkel, hopefully for christmas
Thanks for your advice guys
Cheers Jason

[POELWYK]

Originally Posted by JC

With this mod, you might gain some induction noise, but you will lose a bit of low down torque but pick up power higher in the rev range. A few years ago Casper probably did the biggest comparison in conjunction with G&D on a dyno, and found that the G&D style box (now made by many diffferent manufacturers), with Pod filter and stand intake piping gave the best overall results. Just saying......

Funny tou should say that because my car was one of the g and d test cars along with caspers au and i found it verry restictive with standed pipeing


Thats my 2 bob :d

[Stav]

A few years ago on th dyno I got 141rwkws. Then on the second run we removed all piping and the gain was phenomenal...wait for it 1 rwkw lolol yes 142 rwkws .

[The Monty]

Stav, when I got my custom tune done, the difference between all piping and no piping was 2hp, lol so very close.

[Jimmyd]

Agreed.
From my expereinces so far as an outright HP gain it is next to useless - limitations imposed by the size of the throttle body. But as for drivability thats another matter - engine just feels much happier not sucking through a straw.....

Cheers

James

[azza11]

Why not just bypass most of the piping?

I have a 3" stainless length sitting around, worth giving a go?

AZZA