Remove auto trans and swap torque convertor

bloggs24 · 06-08-2013, 01:24 PM

Hey everyone, im after a bit of guidance here.

A month or 2 ago, what I believe was a squealing noise coming from the torque converter, I have bought a used torque converter and I want to swap it over.

The reason why I believe it is the torque converter is because the squealing occurred only while I held my foot on the brake and had the trans in gear/drive or reverse, it would go away in park or neutral, and would also go away once I actually started driving until I came to a stop.

Anyway, needing the car, I continued to use it

And on the way to work after getting some takeaway (I noticed the noise was worse) the transmission slipped, and I just rolled along with just the engine reving, I parked the car and got a lift to work. I picked it up later that night and managed to drive it home fine.

I may also have a small leak somewhere under there as well, as I noticed some oil drips on the concrete under the trans, so I've lifted the car and cleaned up under the trans with degreaser, so I may be able to find where it is coming from.

Now, I have bought a replacement torque converter, a couple bottles of tq95 and a transmission service kit. The plan is to drop the auto, change the torque converter, put the auto back in and do a service and flush.

I've been looking everywhere for a guide on how to take out the auto, the best piece of information I could find is: (a single reply from a thread on fordmods)

Quote:

If the engine is out of the car or even if it is not (assuming you have removed the driveshaft and disconnected the wiring already), first remove the inspection plate in the front of the trans. Turn the engine over until you can see the torque converter bolts. Undo one and then turn the engine over to the next one, there are 4 of them. Next remove the engine to transmission braces on the left and right sides of the engine. Now, you should be ready to undo the bell housing bolts.

from what I can see from under the car, I should unbolt the driveshaft from the diff and remove it from the trans, disconnect the wiring on the left of the trans, unbolt the 2 oil lines also on the top left of the trans, remove the support brace from the rear of the trans, unbolt the bell housing from the engine.

I could not see any bolts/seal under the trans which would be for an inspection plate?
Any other surprises I should be aware of, like leaking oil from driveshaft/oil lines etc.
I installed a bypass trans cooler about 20-30K ago to avoid transmission problems

After as much advice as possible, the more in depth the better, I will try and do this with a friend on the weekend.

Gaz · 06-08-2013, 09:05 PM

Yep remove driveshaft diff end first. Mark the Uni with paint marker to be sure it goes back in same way for balance purpose.

You might lose some oil out of the output shaft seal, especially when you tilt it back. I'd crack the rear pan bolts and drain some oil first.

Then put a jack under the pan with some wood bracing to distribute the load.

Inspection plate is at the front of the bellhousing, you can only see a little part of it from the front of the transmission looking back at the bellhousing at the bottom. It's a sheet metal plate you take out.

Have fun getting the top bellhousing bolts is all I have to say! I used about 1.5m of extensions and a uni and got to it from behind the gearbox over the top.

bloggs24 · 24-08-2013, 05:25 PM

2 and a half weeks later lol, I've finally got the time to get into this. Car is up on stands, I've removed the driveshaft, taken out the 4 torque converter bolts, disconnected the oil lines and unplugged the wiring. Now I need to unbolt the bell housing...

**redxm** · 24-08-2013, 09:30 PM

make sure you push the converter back into the trans before you pull it all apart.

bloggs24 · 26-08-2013, 01:36 AM

yeh, i didnt get that far yet, will finish the job later in the week. Also look like i need to unbolt the trans from the gear selector?

bloggs24 · 01-09-2013, 10:30 AM

So close yet it feels like i'm so far, all that is left is the top bolt on the starter motor and a couple of bolts on the bellhousing. The top bolts on the bellhousing were a PITA! but i could atleast see them.

Ah, i picked up my kincrome garage creeper from bunnings yesterday, special order for only $75. makes working under the cay so much more comfortable

Also, when you say push the torque converter back first, thats obviously after i've cracked the seal between the bell housing and the engine right...

J.C. · 01-09-2013, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gaz

Yep remove driveshaft diff end first. Mark the Uni with paint marker to be sure it goes back in same way for balance purpose.

You might lose some oil out of the output shaft seal, especially when you tilt it back. I'd crack the rear pan bolts and drain some oil first.

Then put a jack under the pan with some wood bracing to distribute the load.

Inspection plate is at the front of the bellhousing, you can only see a little part of it from the front of the transmission looking back at the bellhousing at the bottom. It's a sheet metal plate you take out.

Have fun getting the top bellhousing bolts is all I have to say! I used about 1.5m of extensions and a uni and got to it from behind the gearbox over the top.

Yes. As painful as they are, still possible as you stated.

How I achieved this is the removal of the trans support (ensure trolley jack in supporting trans of course). Lower trans down (it shall pivot on the engine mounts) unit you can get your extensions (which shall not be that far, probably an inch), swivel socket and ratchet in there to undo them, then jack up again into original position and block up engine sump/flywheel housing.

Another word of advice is to do the above before you undo any of the other transmission to flywheel retaining bolts. Doing it this way will ensure it remains flush and secure, hence those two bolts shall be much easier to remove.

The above is just what has worked for me as on the 5L you can barely see the top bolts. I'm assuming the same can be said for the inline six.

Good luck with it. When you have done it once, the second and third time is so much more easier.

bloggs24 · 01-09-2013, 10:57 AM

Yeh, i've gotten the top bolts out, hopefully later today ill have the transmission out. Literally ive got 5 bolts to remove. The top starter bolt and 4 tans bolts which i've left in until i get the starter off.

bloggs24 · 01-09-2013, 01:03 PM

the transmission is on the ground

is there a proper way to pull the torque converter out? i cant seem to get it to budge

J.C. · 01-09-2013, 01:10 PM

Seems odd!
Should just slide off because, if you are not careful when removing the trans, and tip it forward, the T/C generally slides off onto the ground, hence why there is generally a brace across the front of the trans when they are done up and transported.

Memory is a bit foggy on this one ....................................

bloggs24 · 01-09-2013, 01:13 PM

yeh thats what i thought too, wont budge for me. From reading around, could mean spline damage?

J.C. · 01-09-2013, 01:27 PM

Yep.
Thinking similar. May have to try supporting it (the T/C) and giving it a good jiggle.
If that does not work, you may have to give Brut Force a call.
Let us know how you and him get along and what progress you have.

bloggs24 · 01-09-2013, 02:20 PM

i've put a strap around the t/c and tried jerking and muscling it out, no luck. it spins freely and can move back and forth about 1cm, wont budge any further though.

**gregaust** · 01-09-2013, 02:40 PM

Sounds like it might have picked up in the front bush

bloggs24 · 01-09-2013, 02:57 PM

hmm, i got out the slide hammer. i think ill need to make up a bracket to go across the t/c.

**gregaust** · 01-09-2013, 03:02 PM

If its that tight you found the noise. If its picked up the bush the pump will be damaged

J.C. · 01-09-2013, 03:07 PM

^^^^ What he said.

bloggs24 · 01-09-2013, 03:21 PM

hmm, if that's the case, what options does that leave me? Is the pump replaceable?

**gregaust** · 01-09-2013, 10:14 PM

Yes pump is replaceable.
They are tough to remove . I had one like that had full weight of trans hanging and near had to belt the trans out, sure took some getting off. The bush was stuck on the converter.

bloggs24 · 02-09-2013, 01:42 PM

made up a bracket this morning, and a couple of good whacks with the slide hammer broke the t/c free

the spline looks ok, but im no transmission expert, i was hoping this would be a quick swap, i should have known better as this car has fought me with everything lol.
What should i look for in terms of damage, and what would the cause of the noise have been. If the pump was squealing would it not be constant no matter what gear i was in. so i assumed it was coming from the converter as it only happened in gear on the brake...

**redxm** · 02-09-2013, 08:45 PM

Where ya at? Got a S2 auto sitting in my parts car. Can have it cheap if you come and pull it.

**gregaust** · 02-09-2013, 09:12 PM

What does the converter snout look like?

bloggs24 · 03-09-2013, 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redxm

Where ya at? Got a S2 auto sitting in my parts car. Can have it cheap if you come and pull it.

Thanks for the offer, but i think if i need to replace the whole transmission, i will probably find a manual

bloggs24 · 03-09-2013, 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gregaust

What does the converter snout look like?

I'm guessing the bush is the metal plate halfway down the snout where the spline reduces in size? That plate moves freely in there, while it doesnt in the new converter.

**gregaust** · 03-09-2013, 09:37 PM

The outside? where it runs in the pump bush? Can you see what was holding it in there ?

bloggs24 · 04-09-2013, 01:21 PM

Looking into the pump housing, i cant see signs of any damage, the pump rubber bush is not damaged. The outside of the torque converter spout has no signs of damage and the spline has a few light scratches. inside the torque converter possibly on the face of the stator (where the spline reduces in size down inside the t/c) a round piece of metal is loose, and when i move the torque converter around i can hear what sounds like loose metal moving inside it. Also there were no signs of leaking oil.
Is it safe to say the damage was contained in the torque converter?

**gregaust** · 04-09-2013, 09:32 PM

Inside the converter does move around and will rattle , is normal . Once it is installed the internals are located on the front of the trans

bloggs24 · 05-09-2013, 12:40 AM

Hmm, unless there is a way to test the pump, i think i'll install the new torque converter and see how it goes.
And what i meant by loose metal, it actually sounds like pieces of metal floating inside in the oil, i may even cut the converter open and check it out.

bloggs24 · 07-09-2013, 11:28 AM

almost back together, and holy crap getting the transmission back onto the jack under the car by myself was a pain in the ***! However looks like i've now got a coolant leak, its coming from the back hose that goes under the extractors into the back of the water pump...

mik · 08-09-2013, 01:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bloggs24

almost back together, and holy crap getting the transmission back onto the jack under the car by myself was a pain in the ***! However looks like i've now got a coolant leak, its coming from the back hose that goes under the extractors into the back of the water pump...

if it is leaking at the pipe where it goes into the back of the water pump, it should be a fairly easy fix as long as the pipe is not corroded, it is just an o ring, on the other hand if the cooling system has been neglected and the pipe is rusty, its a tad more work.