Car Detailing - What products are your go to?

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Speaking of sprayers, and I have known about this for a while now, but Detailing Shed have added Pressol to their range.

https://detailingshed.com.au/collect...action-sprayer

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These sprayers rose to notoriety via Obsessed Garage a few years ago and have been improved and modified to suit the wide range of chemicals used in the detailing arena.



While I have been very happy with the Kwazar Mercury that I have a cabinet full of, these Pressol sprayers very good too. You pay for that excellence though, the usual you get what you pay for stacks up here.

I note the Detailing Shed range is currently focused on the "Industrial" design bottle and sprayer head. My experience to date has been with the "Household" versions.

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Both Industrial and Household versions feature the same double action trigger as the Kwazar's, spraying on the squeeze and the release. They also atomise liquids very well and are very ergonomic to use.

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So which is better, Kwazar or Pressol? I would say neither, both are top level sprayers. For me, I like the design and colours of the Kwazar better. Although, and this is hard to put into words, but the Pressol's feel more technical in their action.

Detailing Shed have added the "household" versions to the store now. I prefer these versions because they are translucent for easy product level indication.

https://detailingshed.com.au/collect...43149942882519

I would also suggest the smaller 500ml sizes of styles as these are easier to work with.

[DFB FGXR6]

Now that Car Care Products are stocking some new brands, I feel their business has become a bit more relevant........to me at least. They are currently the only local distributor of Stjarnagloss.

https://www.carcareproducts.com.au/



Stjarnagloss is a new brand for me, although I resisted trying the products for a little while..............I guess the nice-looking bottles and labels got to me.

https://www.carcareproducts.com.au/stjarnagloss.html



My introduction to the brand is via Sno Pre-Wash, Silke Quick Detailer and yet another tyre dressing in the form of Gummi. Silke passed the sink test (something I tend to do when unboxing by spraying product on the stainless sink to gauge scent and feel) and Sno smelt lovely.

Rounding out the order, some dressing applicators and Gyeon Prep. The Edgeless 365 towels and chain clearer are a father's day gift.

https://www.carcareproducts.com.au/s...ing-brush.html

[GasoLane]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Now that Car Care Products are stocking some new brands, I feel their business has become a bit more relevant........to me at least. They are currently the only local distributor of Stjarnagloss.

That's curious, a Scandinavian name for an English company

[CyberWasp]

How many brands are there that make car cleaning products?
It must be one of the most competitive industries i can think of with so many competitors.

Here is another one that I don't think has been mentioned in this thread.

Prima Car Care also have some amazing products.
They seem to have fallen by the wayside as they have not had anything new in recent years and have not entered the Si02 era.

HydroMax was my go to topper before Si02 for example.

[DFB FGXR6]

AutoBuff are running a sale for Father's Day, with 10% off selected brands including Koch Chemie, Gtechniq, P&S, Ethos, Sonax and Gyeon.

https://autobuff.com.au/

Sale ends midnight September 5 2022.

[fordomatic]

Going to fully detail my FG G6ET on the weekend, cant wait. Full decontamination, correction and ceramic coating. Will do my best to document as I go but it won't be that thorough. I find taking photos takes away from the detail when i'm really on a roll.

I should share the detail of the BMW 335i coupe that I did, the tranformation was so good.

[In Focus]

25% off Bowdens at Repco. https://www.repco.com.au/en/brands/b...kd0204-bowdens

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by In Focus

25% off Bowdens at Repco. https://www.repco.com.au/en/brands/b...kd0204-bowdens

From what I have used or know about, this what to hit and what to miss -

Hit (buy with confidence) -

-Boss Gloss
-Wheely Clean
-Three Way
-Leather Love (really love this)
-Leather Guard
-Microfiber Wash (love this)
-Flash Prep
-Naked Glass
-The Big Green Sucker
-The Square Bear
-The Foursome
-The Great Barrier Thingy (love this)

Miss -
-Snow Job (just doesn't clean)
-Agent Orange (meh)
-Fabra Cadabra (anecdotal)
-Most of their microfiber towels and wash pads (the quality is fine, just way way overpriced, even on sale)

[FTE217]

as much as I'd prefer supporting them I can't, I've been dis satisfied what I've used and still have a bit on the shelf will hand it over for the kids cars.
Smart marketing and all but yer nah.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by FTE217

as much as I'd prefer supporting them I can't, I've been dis satisfied what I've used and still have a bit on the shelf will hand it over for the kids cars.
Smart marketing and all but yer nah.

Like any brand, there are hits and misses, it's impossible for a brand to nail each and every product category. Some of Bowden's stuff I have liked, others have been completely useless.

I initially thought the wacky names were cute, but that wore off quickly. I guess the names gave them some cut through to get established, however the smutty names make it hard to take the products seriously sometimes.

I mean, who is going to tell their mate they put some "Wet Dreams" onto their car to make it so shiny?

[FTE217]

Absolutely hits and miss’s
Them most to my liking.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[DFB FGXR6]

Optimum No Rinse – Versatility to the max!

https://www.detailstore.com.au/produ...39289294225463
https://detailingshed.com.au/product...0c296c3e&_ss=r
https://autobuff.com.au/collections/...nse-wash-shine



One of the first of its type, Optimum No Rinse or ONR is a waterless/rinse-less wash solution that is able to be used on all vehicle surfaces, inside and out. ONR contains polymers that offer protection and lubrication during a wash, bonding to the paint at the same time and leaving a glossy, slick finish afterwards.

The key role of ONR is for waterless and rinse-less washing, the difference between those two are as follows –

Water-less Washing - This is where the only liquid used is the actual chosen product. You spray, then wipe, flipping or replacing the towel often. This is a method I rarely use and probably best only used at a pinch on dusty rather than dirty vehicles. For this role, dilute ONR to 1:16 (Quick Detailer ratio).

Rinse-less Washing - This method uses a solution made up in a bucket with multiple towels soaking in it, and also a solution mixed in a sprayer to pre-treat. You then wipe with a towel, flipping to a clean side as much as possible. When each side of the towel has been used, put it aside and grab another from the bucket. Use a clean, dry towel to dry up the remaining water/solution. I prefer this method as there is more liquid involved to encapsulate the dirt. Again, I tend to only use rinse-less on dusty or moderately dirty vehicles.

Both of those methods can be beneficial for those who don’t have access to a hose, say an apartment building. It’s also great if you want to give the car a quick clean up, perhaps when a full bucket and water wash is not warranted. You also save on water overall, handy during water restrictions, and limit chemical runoff. In some cases, a rinse-less wash can actually be safer, a point I will explain later on.

Expanding on the rinse-less method, this is a basic run down on the steps in which to do the job safely (Please note, some of these pics are from different days using different towels/products, I did this more so to better illustrate the method) –

Mix up your bucket solution following the recommended ratio, which is 256:1 for ONR. If you suck at dilutions like I do, try this website to work out the quantities of water and product. The Carpro Measure Cup is also worth adding to your bottle –

https://www.omnicalculator.com/every...dilution-ratio
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...-measuring-cup





Now add your towels to the bucket, allowing them to be fully saturated in the solution. For a Mustang, you will probably use about 6 - 8 towels, a larger Ranger dual cab would likely be up to 10 towels. I like square towels for this task, they are folded and segmented easier. I use these 16x16 Platimum Pluffle's and have 10 of them dedicated for this role.

https://detailingshed.com.au/product...18460507897913





Each panel should be pre-soaked with ONR by spraying directly onto the surface. Depending on your location or weather, you can spray the whole car down at once or work sections/panels at a time.





Once pre-treated, remove a towel from the bucket, lightly ring it out and then fold it so that you end up with 8 sides to work with. Then start wiping with light pressure in the one direction. Flip the towel to a clean side as needed. If a section is still dirty after a pass, then flip the towel and repeat the process, which helps avoid marring the paint.



Then return with a drying towel to mop up any residue left behind; you can also apply more ONR from you bottle if needed.



Because a dirty towel is never returned to the bucket, the washing solution remains clean. And the fact you keep flipping to a clean side or towel regularly, it can actually be a safer wash method. It also means you can re-use the solution for the next wash if desired. I tip it down the drain myself.



For someone new to this wash method, it can take a while to become comfortable and efficient with rinse-less washing. Given the choice, I always favor a full bucket wash with plenty of water, it's just how I prefer to clean, but there are certainly benefits to rinse-less washing. I think the important thing to consider is how dirty the car is, sometimes it's just easier and quicker to clean a dirty car with water.

As mentioned earlier, ONR can be used beyond rinse-less washing, for example as a clay lubricant when diluted at 1:64. ONR is great to maintain interiors that don’t require the strength of an APC, able to be used on leather, plastics and even glass. I also use it as a tidier way to deal with dirty door jambs, which prevents liquids or soap from entering the cabin. ONR can be used to wipe over your engine bay as well. For these roles, I use it at the quick detailer dilution.







A couple of key points –

-Always mix to the correct dilution ratios. ONR was designed to work at those ratios, adding more product is wasteful and may even, although rare, cause streaking.

-If you do a lot of rinse-less washing, then invest in a pump-action or battery powered sprayer to help speed up the pre-soak step. Think Marolex, Kwazar, iK or Solo -

https://detailingshed.com.au/product...cd027c58&_ss=r
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...-360-super-pro
https://www.detailstore.com.au/produ...ee055442&_ss=r
https://duralirrigation.com.au/produ...eed90a36&_ss=r

-ONR is safe for use on fiberglass, gelcoats and vinyl decals.

-For “dusting” an interior, ONR is a low impact product that will leave the surface clean and a matte looking finish. I have been using ONR more and more for this role.

-Because ONR is biodegradable, the remaining solution in your bucket can be tipped on the lawn or garden.

-ONR is also a good thing to take to a car show. Simply mix up your solution in a gamma seal bucket, add the towels, seal it up and put into boot with some pre-soak and a drying towel.

I was late to the ONR party, mainly because I just did not fully trust the rinse-less wash method. My initial uses focused on door jambs but has expanded to the point where I use it on almost every detail in some way or another.

[fordomatic]

Spent 18 hours on the buff on Saturday. Will do a few posts when I can this week.

The car has come up excellent. First car I’ve done besides my P250 that has come up almost perfect.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by fordomatic

Spent 18 hours on the buff on Saturday. Will do a few posts when I can this week.

The car has come up excellent. First car I’ve done besides my P250 that has come up almost perfect.

Can't wait to see the results.

Would you mind giving a run down on your application observations on NV Nova EVO?

[bangm001]

Hi DFB and all.

I need to clean and rejuvenate the bonnet insulator on my BA typhoon. Id probably just buy a new one if i could from ford as it has been hit a few times by the intercooler plumbing (stock) coming off at the crossover on spirited driving, so its a little fragile in areas. Ill probably just take it off of the bonnet (any tips on how to remove - i have a good quality trim removal kit and noticed that the clips can still be bought new if i need to).
Once it's off, what the best way to clean and rejuvenate (its not really that oily or dirty - just doesn't pop any more compared to the rest of the car).

[bangm001]

So iv got the insulator off, easy job with no broken clips. I just degreasered it and then just used CT18 truck wash to clean it. Its very fragile with the material coming away from the foam in alot of parts. Awaiting it to dry now, looks alot cleaner but certainly still no show job.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by bangm001

So iv got the insulator off, easy job with no broken clips. I just degreasered it and then just used CT18 truck wash to clean it. Its very fragile with the material coming away from the foam in alot of parts. Awaiting it to dry now, looks alot cleaner but certainly still no show job.

Originally Posted by bangm001

Hi DFB and all.

I need to clean and rejuvenate the bonnet insulator on my BA typhoon. Id probably just buy a new one if i could from ford as it has been hit a few times by the intercooler plumbing (stock) coming off at the crossover on spirited driving, so its a little fragile in areas. Ill probably just take it off of the bonnet (any tips on how to remove - i have a good quality trim removal kit and noticed that the clips can still be bought new if i need to).
Once it's off, what the best way to clean and rejuvenate (its not really that oily or dirty - just doesn't pop any more compared to the rest of the car).

Sorry for not chiming in sooner, sounds like you got it sorted. I would have probably done something similar, using a soft wheel brush to lightly agitate with some APC or car wash soap.

[fordomatic]

I don’t have heaps of time but I’ll do my best to explain what I did. I didn’t take a lot of photos I should have, but it is what it is. I am not an expert but I feel I have my groove with paint correction. Any questions just ask.

Below is my 2010 G6ET with 60,000km. I know the history of the car since new and it was garaged its whole life. I bought it with 45,000km and use it as a daily. It had never been properly detailed in it’s life, so the plan was to give it some love. It wears it’s original paint all over.



First step was a strip wash, no need for a pre-soak foam or the two bucket method (I’m an animal I know) as I’m going to take out anything I create now anyway. I hadn’t washed the car in about 8 weeks. Where I work I also get heaps of tree sap and pollen. I gave the car a really good tub and then prepared for decontamination process.



You can see some sap on the paint in this photo and a bird poop


This ones for DFB FGXR6, i was goin to use a sponge, but I don't own one


This was really interesting as the NV Purify had no reaction at all, which is a good thing, just means there wasn’t any iron or other contaminant on the paint. Purify is used as a clay lube as well. I did one panel at a time washing down each panel as I went.





You wait around 2 minutes to let the purify work before going over with clay. I was ruthless with the clay and was not smooth, the photos later on will show how if you just use clay and you aren’t careful it can mar the paint badly. This is why I don’t like companies spruiking to use clay to novices, because they do it thinking it is cleansing the paint and that it doesn’t need anything else after. I only ever clay a car if im correcting it.

The car was actually one of the cleanest cars I have clayed. All I had to get off was sap on the tops, there was no tar, or anything else on the side. With that all done I got it in the garage and masked it up, ready for the next morning.........

[fordomatic]

Que the next morning at 5am, I only had Saturday allocated for the correction. I inspected the paint with an inspection light. Then did some test spots with different combos to work out what is best. I tried a fair few combos and again the results surprised me.



All that marring/scratches you can see was from the clay bar


First up I tried Scholl S20 on a shine mate yellow pad, this didn’t get rid of the washing swirls enough. Then I tried scholl S20 on a scholl blue spider cutting pad and it got he imperfections out but left marring, which would require a follow up of S30 to refine. At this point I though I would need to do a two step correction, which I really didn’t want to do. I then tried The Last Cut on a Shine Mate blue pad, it also got rid of imperfection but left very minor marring. I then spoke to a detailing mate and tried the least aggressive of all those combos, S20 with a Shine Mate Blue pad. I spent a bit of extra time letting it finish down. Bam, I found my combo, it got every imperfection out and left no marring. Crazy that the least aggressive combo ended up giving the best results.

50/50

[fordomatic]

So away I went with the correction, the results were really good and level of gloss was insane, this paint looked so good, it brought the metallic fleck alive. The process was very slow but worth it. It took me 2 ½ hours just to do the roof alone. There were some minor water marks on the roof and bonnet but with the softened edges from the polish, they were barely noticeable. Oh, also, after every single pass make sure you brush/clean the pad, I can’t stress this enough, it makes a massive difference.







This video shows how wet it looks in person


Beers to get me through


Selfie in my best attire


With the correction done it was time to wipe all the oils out of the paint to check the finish was perfect. I used NV clarity for this and then checked every panel to see if I needed to improve anywhere. I fixed a couple of areas up with the RO mini and then it was time for the Nova Evo ceramic coating. At this point my phone was telling me to go to bed, but there was still a lot more to go......

[fordomatic]

I’m not a fan of ceramic coatings and had a bad experience with CQ UK 3, I personally think that coating is rubbish. I used Nova Evo as a test on my Sportsman. Nova Evo is a step up and what I like most is how easy it is to use. You apply it, wait a minute, wipe off to level it and then use another microfiber to take any residue left. It’s an absolute pleasure to work with. Always remember that the microfiber you use needs to be thrown out or washed thoroughly and only used as a rag. Also, I’d never use a ceramic coating on a weekend car. For this car I just want ease of washing and I know that for at least two years I can just wash it and still know it’s protected.



With the coating done, it was time to hit the bed, it was now 130am, solid 20 ½ hour day on the tools.





The next day I took it out in the sun for the real test, it looked excellent. This colour is at it’s best in the shade but in the sun the metallic fleck just shone. I’ll get some good photos when I get a chance but this is all I have for now. That's a wrap, still a few things on the exterior I need to do but the paint is done, two little dints for PDR, one on bonnet and one on rear door. Next step is the interior which will happen whenever i get the chance.

[DJM83]

Looks amazing as i said mate, well done

[DFB FGXR6]

Bloody brilliant work buddy, I would call that expertly done! Seduce is a stunning colour, you made it sparkle like it should.

A couple of interesting points you touched on. Clay bars can be very destructive in the wrong hands. I always wince when I read the words “I gave my car a clay bar”, mentioning it in a way that claying is something you can just casually do on a regular basis. As you mentioned, you should only use clay products as little as possible, ideally prior to polishing.

The combination of Scholl S20 Black with the blue Shine Mate pad really seems to suit Ford Australia paint from that era. I used that combo on my XR6, it delivered near perfection in one step with minimal effort.





Thanks for posting your thoughts on Nova EVO. I know about someone who had a nightmare experience using it, I'm guessing he either had a bad bottle or was doing something completely wrong.

And 100% agree on not being locked into using a ceramic coating on each and every vehicle.

[DFB FGXR6]

Well, after seeing the stunning work fordomatic achieved over the weekend, I have an unnatural urge to go and polish something. Sadly, I don't have anything in need of that attention at the moment.

My fix will have to be in the form of my latest delivery from Detailing Shed........



Koch Chemie All Surface Cleaner ASC is a residue and streak free cleaner for, as the name suggests, all surfaces. Its primary role is for light interior cleaning and dusting.

https://detailingshed.com.au/product...5dc32876&_ss=r

The Pressol Household sprayer, with the fitment of an Industrial spray head, will be used for Brake Buster. I use the 500ml size as they are more manageable to use around the car.

https://detailingshed.com.au/product...43149942849751
https://detailingshed.com.au/product...43151537176791

I have also added another of the Detail Factory Tire Scrub Brush's to my arsenal. These are softer than normal tyre brushes but harder than a wheel face brush. This "just right" bristle structure will be used to clean rubber floor mats. I have found that a wheel brush is just not aggressive enough on these areas, I also don't want to introducing tyre grime onto my mats, hence adding a second one.

https://detailingshed.com.au/product...42968901091543

Next are these 300ml Gyeon Dispenser Bottles -

https://detailingshed.com.au/product...37198815395999

And finally, something I have had on my radar for a while.........

https://detailingshed.com.au/product...41092102520991







This Maxshine Folding Step Stool will come in handy when attempting to clean the roof of taller vehicles.

Can' wait to get my fix tomorrow!

[prydey]

Fordomatic, great work. Well beyond what my patience level could cope with. My FG xr6 was seduce. Such a brilliant colour.

[bfets]

I've got a question for you guys while waiting for my new car to be built and get to Australia.

How often do you guys do a wheels off detail?

When you do, what process do you follow? Whole car on jack stands and then do all 4 wheels at the same time? One wheel at a time?

Anyone have a good suggestion for a set of jack stands and a trolley jack that will work well on the Mustang? I will be installing a set of jacking rails as well.

Ceramic coat the wheels or not? I probably wont ceramic coat my car because it will live a pampered life and I like the idea of experimenting with different paint sealants and wax's. Wheels on the other hand can probably do with a coating?

[fordomatic]

Originally Posted by prydey

Fordomatic, great work. Well beyond what my patience level could cope with. My FG xr6 was seduce. Such a brilliant colour.

Thanks mate, I do love the colour. It was a slog to do it in one day

Originally Posted by DJM83

Looks amazing as i said mate, well done

Thanks mate

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Bloody brilliant work buddy, I would call that expertly done! Seduce is a stunning colour, you made it sparkle like it should.


Thanks for posting your thoughts on Nova EVO. I know about someone who had a nightmare experience using it, I'm guessing he either had a bad bottle or was doing something completely wrong.

And 100% agree on not being locked into using a ceramic coating on each and every vehicle.

Thanks mate, Evo was so easy fro me to use. CQ UK was an absolute nightmare and having to do two coats made it even worse. It did turn me off ceramic coatings for sure as the CQ UK also needed heaps on maintenance and then only lasted 12 months. I did my Sportsman as a test and it's performed great so far, no toppers either.

[ford12]

When using this coating what microfiber do you use to buff off, considering they are throw away once used.
It says on the instructions do a 50 cm x 50 cm section at a time, after each section is done do you swap to a new cloth ?
And 1 more question do they give you enough applicators and how often do you change to a new one ?

Thanks in advance

Originally Posted by fordomatic

I’m not a fan of ceramic coatings and had a bad experience with CQ UK 3, I personally think that coating is rubbish. I used Nova Evo as a test on my Sportsman. Nova Evo is a step up and what I like most is how easy it is to use. You apply it, wait a minute, wipe off to level it and then use another microfiber to take any residue left. It’s an absolute pleasure to work with. Always remember that the microfiber you use needs to be thrown out or washed thoroughly and only used as a rag. Also, I’d never use a ceramic coating on a weekend car. For this car I just want ease of washing and I know that for at least two years I can just wash it and still know it’s protected.

image

With the coating done, it was time to hit the bed, it was now 130am, solid 20 ½ hour day on the tools.

image

image

The next day I took it out in the sun for the real test, it looked excellent. This colour is at it’s best in the shade but in the sun the metallic fleck just shone. I’ll get some good photos when I get a chance but this is all I have for now. That's a wrap, still a few things on the exterior I need to do but the paint is done, two little dints for PDR, one on bonnet and one on rear door. Next step is the interior which will happen whenever i get the chance.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by bfets

I've got a question for you guys while waiting for my new car to be built and get to Australia.

How often do you guys do a wheels off detail?

When you do, what process do you follow? Whole car on jack stands and then do all 4 wheels at the same time? One wheel at a time?

Anyone have a good suggestion for a set of jack stands and a trolley jack that will work well on the Mustang? I will be installing a set of jacking rails as well.

Ceramic coat the wheels or not? I probably wont ceramic coat my car because it will live a pampered life and I like the idea of experimenting with different paint sealants and wax's. Wheels on the other hand can probably do with a coating?

How often you do a wheels off detail will depend on the usage pattern of the car. In my case, I have never done one, but then I don't drive the "special" cars in the rain or on wet roads.

Having said that, when I changed out my wheels last year, in theory I did end up doing the process. I went wheel by wheel with a trolly jack, taking the time to clean and coat the front calipers.





Then I went through and decontaminated my old wheels, polished and then wiped them down with Bead Maker for storage.











Have a look at the beginning of this video from Chromatic, this would be the extreme end of the wheels off detail. I love his content by the way, superbly produced and very soothing to watch -



As for ceramic coating wheels, I would definitely recommend doing this step, especially before the wheels get too weathered as that will make the process much easier. While coatings are not essential for the paint, wheels are always dirtier and subjected to heat and brake dust that a ceramic coating helps deal with. With the dusty Brembo's, coating the wheels is a worthwhile step.

[fordomatic]

Originally Posted by ford12

When using this coating what microfiber do you use to buff off, considering they are throw away once used.
It says on the instructions do a 50 cm x 50 cm section at a time, after each section is done do you swap to a new cloth ?
And 1 more question do they give you enough applicators and how often do you change to a new one ?

Thanks in advance

Hey mate, I do more than 50cm x 50cm, i guess that comes with confidence applying it. I broke the roof into 4 sections and the bonnet into 4 sections, all other panels into two sections.

I think they give 5 applicators. I use the same one for the whole car, just check its still clean, if it remains damp and hasn't gone hard then its fine.

I've now done my sportsman and the G6E and still have half a bottle left, you dont need to use heaps. Once you begin using it you'll know quickly if you are using too much as it'll be hard to get off when levelling.

I now use these https://carcareco.com.au/product/the...towel-24-pack/ they are great. I use two at a time, one for leveling and one to buff of residue. I used 10 of them on the G6. biggest thing you need to make sure that you get all the residue off before it hardens. This is very important, use an inspection light on each panel as you go to make sure.

Prep is everything for a ceramic coating, ensure it's corrected and isoprol wipe down before applying.