Common Problems with the AU?? - Page 16

GhiaGrifter · 07-03-2008, 02:30 PM

Seen a few threads with this problem but my browser search didnt find it here so I'll go with that.

Some of the AU's have a bizarre design fault.
If one, or both, of your brake lights are out (bulb blown), Cruise Control will stop working. No joke.

I can confirm this as of this morning. I knew I had one light out and have been driving around, then Cruise stopped working. When I tested my lights recently I realized I'd been driving around for a week or so with NO brakelights other than the high-tail one (Brrrrr).

Replaced both bulbs, now dont scare cars behind me so much and have Cruise Control fully working again.

Model: 2001 Tickford Fairmont 2AU

Cost: $2.50 at Repco
(Make sure you narrow down the exact model when you go in, the manual is a good thing to have, just in case voltages/amps/wattages vary).

Jon

07-03-2008, 08:49 PM

Power steering rack has itself AGAIN! Had it replaced less than 6 months ago with a reco/change over unit. It's leaking again!

blackers10 · 08-03-2008, 10:53 AM

id go back to where you got it from and get it replaced FREE
as thats just not acceptable

09-03-2008, 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blackers10

id go back to where you got it from and get it replaced FREE
as thats just not acceptable

I noticed that it's they pressure switch that's leaking. Had it replaced when I got the rack done.. Was told that Repco switches are prone to "letting go unexpectedly" (FFS, why did they use a Repco switch to begin with, then? :togo: )

Because it's the long weekend, I can't get in to get in fixed until, at the earliest, Tuesday... Talk about being ****ed off at the moment!

:

bisho · 09-03-2008, 01:04 PM

i have a S111 au xr6 and for a while now it was hard to start when it was cold when hot no problem. so one day we went out and the battery itself so nrma come out put new battery in it all good now starts like a champ.
apparently the battery was on the way out and wasn't sending enough charge to the computer.

5.0 ED · 29-03-2008, 02:01 AM

I have a Series 1 Fairmont Ghia V8 and problems thus far have been

2 lower rear ball joints - pressed them out and fitted new ones.
front brake shudder - surface discs and put in softer pads
bad idle behavior problems cause by cam that i put in
broken maf sensor which i dropped
one rack boot

Had a rather stange climate control problem where by if i set it to say 20 degrees on a 16 degree day it would put out full hot air until inside cabin would get to about 40 degrees and then it would turn air con on full cold in a nasty and very annoying cycle.

Fix - well i check for bad earths and other problems etc. couldn't find anything and then someone suggested to reset the climate control by hitting off and the button with the person sitting down together. all fixed.

ford_maiden · 28-04-2008, 12:46 PM

well i have a V8 AUII fairmont ghia

if i drive ot a little bit mean it gets hot- as it should- but as i go to pull it up it wont down gear i think, it shuders and carries on it will drop top about 200 rmp and then pick up again be fine

my electric windows are tempremental

the display panel thing sometime works

and sometimes my seat will decide to adjust it self while im driving

MrXr6Tickford · 19-05-2008, 01:38 PM

well i had my diff replaced 4000km's after i bought it (I've only had it since end of november last year) I think ford reco'd it as it was under that 3month - 5000km warrenty.. but lucky i have a harrier warrenty and it comes under that. But the new diff has been whining a fair bit now and espically when i back off from the throttle... does anyone else think i might have a stuffed diff again?

:

davor · 02-06-2008, 03:05 PM

ABS not working
Can anyone help me with the following ABS problems:
The ABS on my Ford Fairmont, AUIII (Dec. 2001) is producing strange noise when in action. The noise is similar to noise caused by the traction of two metal objects. This started to happen several months ago and was happening only when I was slowing down and pulling to the right. Now days, the noise is regular when ABS is in action. In addition, occasionally (more often then not), while driving, both, ABS and the TCS (Traction Control System) indicators, are up (the lights are on) on the instrument panel. I fix this by stoping and restarting the car (I call it resetting). My mechanic did not find anything visibly wrong and the brakes work fine.
Thanks in advance for any help or advice.

kensington · 20-06-2008, 10:38 PM

I have had the entire console electronics (dials, trip computer, all warning lights, gauges etc) fail on my AU series 1 ghia. Ford aparrently no longer makes/supplies this as a unit which has made replacing the entire unit a difficult option. Would it be possible to repair this problem or has anyone else had similar problems?
Currently what is wrong with the unit causing this failure is unknown but is more complicated than the Ford service centre is able to diagnose. Any suggestions or comments would be helpful as I do not wan't to have to go down the route of trying to fit used parts if avoidable.

BIGJB · 21-06-2008, 08:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kensington

I have had the entire console electronics (dials, trip computer, all warning lights, gauges etc) fail on my AU series 1 ghia. Ford aparrently no longer makes/supplies this as a unit which has made replacing the entire unit a difficult option. Would it be possible to repair this problem or has anyone else had similar problems?
Currently what is wrong with the unit causing this failure is unknown but is more complicated than the Ford service centre is able to diagnose. Any suggestions or comments would be helpful as I do not wan't to have to go down the route of trying to fit used parts if avoidable.

This happened to 1 of the boys at work.... I know this sounds silly but it was caused by a faulty taillight blowing the fuse.... worth a look.

Dauphin · 01-08-2008, 03:15 PM

I might create a "problem timeline" page at aufalcon.com as part of the technical information section. I was wondering if someone(s) might be able to list the kilometres at which specific items start being a problem or need replacing, etc?

Thanks,

Andrew.

blackers10 · 20-06-2008, 11:49 PM

dont VDO manufacture the dash cluster??
if so .. give them a ring.. they may be able to repair it for minimal cost..

tickford.xr6 · 10-08-2008, 09:50 PM

i just got a tickford xr6 ute and on the id plates its got au on one and on the other its got au2 whats the deal with that?

bljohns85 · 13-10-2008, 07:48 AM

that doesnt sound good mate maybe someone has churched it up to be a tickford? and what year model is it? and also did you do a revs check?

patto619 · 14-10-2008, 01:39 PM

got a 01 au II xr6 ute.
just brought it other day.

problems when i brought it were.
Brake Lights: Both were blown, hope there isnt a electrical issue, just hope the guy i brought it from didnt notice.
Front Headlight: One was not working, had a look at globe and it was fine, checked behind and just had a loose wire.
Passenger Door: Wasnt opening from inside, pulled interior out of door, the cable had fallen out of mount, pushed it back in and it was fine/

Now i just need roadworthy, rego, and new tires.

xr8man83 · 30-08-2008, 01:33 PM

problems with my au2 xr8 ute has been.

Starter motor died at bout 90,000kms dont ask ford for a price I nearly had a heart attack when they said over $1600 haha

water pump died a horrible death at about 100,000kms Gasket is tricky to clean off it took a couple of attempts.

there is a little o-ring in the power steering pump that lets go and you have to cut away a nut that is held on by a by a circlip on the inside so you cant undo it which is real handy haha and replace the o-ring nut thing and circlip doesnt cost much just one of those frustrating jobs

and now my ABS light comes on when i get under it and i loose my ABS the brakes still work just no ABS i still am trying to figure out this problem and will post again when i have unless someone has had this prob and can put me in the right direction???

bljohns85 · 13-10-2008, 07:46 AM

I have also had a few issues with my au it is the AU1 XR6
at 120,000 klms the timing chain snapped pushing pistons into valves,
one of the windows clips had broken therefore no window,
clutch buggered out on me(just recent)
floor pan cracked near seat mount on passenger side,
and also having problems with my throttle body when idling down it will stick on 1100 rpm then idle down properly it takes about 3 seconds though and thats not good when im changing gears....

ongoing cost, decided to do a full rebuild on the ol girl when the timing chain snapped the price of that was $2400.00 could have got a reco for cheap but I love my engine and my au!!!!!

DWag · 15-11-2008, 11:10 PM

number 4.
had the same problem with the central locking button not working in my wifes au2, i just bought another button from the wrecker for $5, popped the old one out unplugged it and plugged in the new one. Good as new.

Swedishmoose · 16-11-2008, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DWag

number 4.
had the same problem with the central locking button not working in my wifes au2, i just bought another button from the wrecker for $5, popped the old one out unplugged it and plugged in the new one. Good as new.

Thank you....

I guess I have to get a new button then....

The Moose

**Professor Farnsworth** · 16-11-2008, 01:10 PM

best to wait for someone else to answer mate, i've never actually had a dif rebuilt, i've either just put up with the whine, or sold the car. Someone here will be able to answer your question though, just have to wait a little bit.

5.0 ED · 16-11-2008, 02:55 PM

The whining noise is the first gear planetary's in the auto, it is just the way they have worn and not anything to worry about, imo not worth getting the auto rebuilt to get rid of it. Sometimes, but only sometimes it will get better after a tranny service. Which it never hurts to give it a service anyway.

Blast2 · 22-12-2008, 01:04 AM

Hi I would suggest you get tranny serviced, oil drained and filter replaced.After 90000 clicks oil will be over heating and not helping 1st.To do a diff recon 1800 to 2200,you can do cheaper if you take diff yourself.

sweetspirit · 22-12-2008, 02:13 PM

Don't get me started hehe . I just want some advice on my current problem .
I put on air con yesterday and could smell buring like " bush fire " then the smell of candle wax .
Within a few minutes all i could see was a grey mist " Like when you open a freezer door "
this was coming out of the air vents and and was bad .
Could it be the gas from the air con ?

Umineko · 25-12-2008, 10:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sweetspirit

Don't get me started hehe . I just want some advice on my current problem .
I put on air con yesterday and could smell buring like " bush fire " then the smell of candle wax .
Within a few minutes all i could see was a grey mist " Like when you open a freezer door "
this was coming out of the air vents and and was bad .
Could it be the gas from the air con ?

Easiest way to tell if it's the gas is if your ACs still working, if it is it's not the gas... also in spite of the fact that the gas is proclaimed to be odourless on the 2 occassions where I have had the evaporator coil fail on fords it smells like a mixture of wet socks and stale farts accompanied by a cloud of white vapour. the most foul and expensive white vapour you'll ever see. 2 airconditioning places I went to for quotes, on learning that it was the evaporator coil that had split simply advised me to sell the car as the cost to remove and reinstall the dash was prohibitive

The Monty · 22-12-2008, 05:09 PM

It would be a burning leaf inside your aircon vent. If its gone now, dont stress, unless your car catches fire.

**George V** · 27-12-2008, 12:23 PM

Hi,

It is nice to see this thread still going.

Problems I had with my AU II so far, since new 2001 till today total app 65,000km.,

1) PS high pressure line leak at the pump, replaced the fitting.

2) Alternator troubles – due to PS oil getting into alternator and wasting away the slip rings inside. – New alternator ($235). Lessons learnt – If the PS pump leaks again, fix it at once and dismantle and service / clean / wash the alternator internals immediately.

3) Brake not good as it used to be – replaced pads, rotors, serviced calipers and finally the master pump – that fixed it. Cause – suspect semi storage in the garage for three years.

4) Replaced all shocks.

Only had minor problems, very happy with it.

Cheers,

George V

trburnard · 28-12-2008, 08:05 PM

Hi Guys,

This is a post for Mum

She has a 2001 AU that has seen some tough times. It is currently stalling as it decelerates (usually at speeds of 25-40 kph although once at 60 kph). The car is dedicated LPG.

The problem is pretty regular and the car has the uncomfortable habit of stalling as you decelerate to nearly every intersection (obviously it is only a matter of time before she ends up with a second vehicle in her boot or the lack of steering puts her in a gutter or worse).

The problem is obviously very serious. The car has done 338 000 + and due to a lack of folding cash she has not had it serviced in some time (despite my protestations). I have a feeling it might be a gas problem or a computer problem but as she needs to get this fixed with the minimum amount of time spent by some ford mechanic in diagnosing it I was wondering whether anyone has experienced this b4 or could narrow it down for me.

I'ld be happy to pass on any of your questions if you need more info.

Thanks in advance.

Trent

AC · 02-03-2009, 08:55 PM

Hey Guys

My S1 Fairmont.
The lights were dropping out when flicking to high beam.
Now, Nothing.

I think maybe there could be a problem with the breaker fuse under the bonnet.
But i would have thought, once it blew that you'd have to replace it.

Is there anything else anyone can think might have happened.

Started intermittently dropping out when flicking to highs, ususally for a second or two.
Now, only lows work. Parkers still good too.

Thanks in advance.

autickfordfairmont · 03-03-2009, 06:12 PM

1998 AU Fairmont Problems over the past 5 years of owning it:

- Problem & Fix - Approx. Cost

80,000km - New exhaust, brake rotors & brake pads just before I bought it

Power steering rack recall - Ford put a spot weld on the rack bolts so that they cannot undo - $0

Diff Whine - replaced with new diff oil & added an additive to quiten it down + painted some sound deadener underneath the car - Worked a little bit but now (at 200,000km) its really really loud and starting to annoy me. - $50

100,000km - Lower Ball Joints Callapsed - Replaced by ford at a cost of approx $400.

5,000km later Front tyres stuffed as ford didnt do a wheel alignment after replacing ball joints - Fix: Ford replaced them and the rears very very very cheaply - $200

Leaking power steering rack - Replaced with reconditioned rack - approx $300

Fuel pump oversupplying fuel (apparantly according to ford) - replaced with new pump & Injectors cleaned at ford - $300

Collapsed cat due to said overfuelling - New high flow cat. & removing resonators - $300

Car hesitating and missing down low and when accelerating quickly - Replaced leads & plugs.

Car to expensive to run - Put on Landi Renzo Injected LPG System - Cost $3,600

Radiator Header tank split around hose fitting and spewing out all coolant - Fix: Replaced with new header tank - Approx $80 with new Coolant aswell.

Electric Windows slow to wind up - Silicon spray in the tracks - $10

Electric window buttons now working - dis-assembled & cleaned contacts - $0

Electric window button lights not working - Replaced with Blue LED's - $20

Car hesitating and surging - New fuel filter & injector cleaner put through it - $30

Warped rotors - replaced with DBA rotors and new pads $250ish

All boot electronics not working (Boot light, wing stop light, number plate lights & electronic boot release) - Fix: Traced down that the wires had been chopped in half inside the rubber boot leading from boot-lid to car body. Rewired and rejoined the wires, all is well. - $5

Car bent and exhaust busted after reversing into a pole at 60km/h - Replaced with new sports exhaust & new tip - $250 - and replaced front & rear bars with TS50 bars & repaired damage - $ insurance excess $

Car overheating - Replaced thermostat & flushed cooling system & added new coolant. - Cost approx. $70

Gear box flaring (slipping) between gears & not selecting when cold - Gear box stuffed so replaced with new stronger auto & new torque converter - cost $2,200

Idiot next door neighbour backed down the drivers side of my car - Fix: New rear door skin, repair damage to other panels & re-paint the entire side - Cost $2,400 paid in cash by him including hire car while my car was getting repaired.

Front bar smashed while brother driving into a camp site - Fix: repair bar & repaint - $600

Front bar having a 3inch hole punched in it by brothers exhaust after he backed into it - Fix: repair bar & repaint - $600

Shagged lower ball joints again at 200,000km - Replaced for a cost of less than $100. Ford wanted $420ish & pedders wanted $320ish.

Sway bar D bushed shagged - Replaced with nolathane D Bushes - $26

Thats all I can think of right now. Im sure there is more, much more, but mostly little things.

Things Needed to be done this year already:

New suspension (Still original shocks & springs at 200,000km), they still handle surprisingly well.

New steering wheel - Glue has let go and is pretty shagged

Cheers

Col