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#1 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 11
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Hi all, first post so here goes!
Have just cleaned out throttle body and IAC on my SR (130,000km) which weren't as grubby as I had expected considering. Anyway was going to try and clean out the regulator, but after removing the circlip and having a brief go at it reckon I'm gonna chew it up a bit with the multi's to get it. So figure just get a newie and not use kid gloves to remove . Genuine Ford replacement about the same price as a Bosch $100ish any difference? Cheers Dave |
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#2 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 108
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Same thing, the original is a german made bosch one. I chewed mine up but put it back in... new one is on the to-do list (will fit reco injectors at the same time). Also I found it hard to get back in, had to use a socket and rubber mallet which felt a bit brutal. Might be best to remove the fuel rail, it's a pain reaching down behind that intake manifold!
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#3 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 11
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Ok thanks mate. Wasn't sure if it the original was a Bosch or not as there was another on ebay advertised as a genuine Ford item. Will get the Bosch anyway.
Any dramas to remove the fuel rail itself? |
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#4 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 108
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Not too bad, throttle body has to come off to wiggle it out. Also have to get the brake booster hose fitting out of the way, and undo the main wiring loom plug. Pretty easy to work out what needs to come off once you start. The fuel hoses come off at the quick connectors under the passenger's feet, so have to be done from underneath. I found some WD-40 on the release collars to clean and lube them made it easy enough to get off. Be ready for fuel to leak out though!
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#5 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 11
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Fitted the new regulator tonight.
You were right AUFanboy it was a pain in the butt to remove the old and nearly as tedious to get the new one in. However had it done in an hour and a half so not too bad I suppose and i did manage (awkwardly) to do it all without removing anything else. |
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#6 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 62
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how do you get the flickin C clip back on ?
Without the regulator popin back up :( |
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#7 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Hervey Bay
Posts: 5,195
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Quote:
You need to make sure the FPR o-rings are lubed with something like engine oil, otherwise its a right bastard and near impossible to get the thing to push down and full seat. |
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#8 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 6,890
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Or if you forget to depressurise the fuel line beforehand, then you can just shove it in......auto lube
__________________
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Rides (past and present) Current: 2004 Ford Falcon 5.4L 3v Barra 220, Manual Past: Mitsubishi Sigma (m), Toyota Seca (m), Toyota Seca SX (m), Toyota Vienta V6 (m), Toyota Soarer 4L v8 (a), BA XR8 ute (m), T3 TE50 (m), BMW Z4 (m) AFF motto - If contrary views trigger, please use ignore button. ![]() |
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#9 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Hervey Bay
Posts: 5,195
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Quote:
If the bonnet wasn't there I wonder how far it would fling it... ![]() |
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