Lower Control arm removal help.

[Serge]

Hey fellas, what's the best way to remove the lower control arm? I have disconnected everything apart from the two bolts holding the arm to the cross member... how do I go about removing the buggers, there is no room to remove them? do I remove the steering rack? any help or advise would be appreciated. Serge.

[Whoosha]

They should come out with out removing the rack , but you will have to undo the sway bar mounts and hold the bar out of the way

[Serge]

hey whoosha the sway bar is on the ground but the bolt holding the control arm to the cross member will not clear the steering rack boot if that makes sense, I undid the two bolts holdind the cross member and lowered the cross member as far as she goes but still no luck? must be a trick to these buggers... any more advise would be awesome. Serge.

[Jastel]

Turn the rack (by the steering wheel) fully the other way and bolts will clear the boots

You DO NOT need to drop the alloy rear crossmember

You DO need to drop the front steel crossmemeber to get the front part of the arm out

[parker]

If I grab a pair of these
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Falc...ht_1486wt_1163
Will I need any special tools to swap out the old ones?

[Evgeni]

Originally Posted by parker

If I grab a pair of these
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Falc...ht_1486wt_1163
Will I need any special tools to swap out the old ones?

Just some deep sockets. If I remember correctly the pivot bolts are 21mm as is the strut to control arm bolt. Ball joint is 19mm. You'll need to drop the front crossmember - there is a bracket holding the transmission cooler lines on the crossmember - 12mm bolt.
If the stud spins on the balljoint you will need to use a box wrench and another wrench to hold the stud to loosen the nut.

Remember to clean and grease the pivot bolts before re-assembly.
Hope this helps.

[parker]

Great post, thanks!

[parker]

I've almost got this job done, but having a hell of a time trying to get the ball joint stud to release from the control arm. Even banging on the end of it with a hammer to knock it out isn't working (it did on the first side I swapped)

[Evgeni]

Originally Posted by parker

I've almost got this job done, but having a hell of a time trying to get the ball joint stud to release from the control arm. Even banging on the end of it with a hammer to knock it out isn't working (it did on the first side I swapped)

Dont hit the ball joint stud - you'll mushroom the threads. Hit what the balljoint goes through - the spindle. This will release it.
Usually around 4 to 5 dead hammer blows on the spindle will free the balljoint.

[jpblue1000]

even better ger a ball joint remover
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FIT-TOOLS...item3f1ebeb5e2
had one like this for 20 years works 100% no damage and no hammers,
these are available in OZ just not through Ebay. one of the great tools.
JP

[parker]

There's no thread on the end of the stud, and the nut it on just enough that I can work it off again if it gets a little crazy, but it's not releasing when I hit the spindle either...
I've put some spray down there and will leave it soak some more and try again.
That tool would be perfect - if only it was here. Will head down the auto shop after lunch and see if they have one.

[Sturmer]

Originally Posted by parker

I've almost got this job done, but having a hell of a time trying to get the ball joint stud to release from the control arm. Even banging on the end of it with a hammer to knock it out isn't working (it did on the first side I swapped)

That's a tapered ball joint and you have to hit it really hard to get it to release, make sure you remove the ABS speed sensor on the spindle so you don't catch it by mistake. Even though it's a ten year old thread, it was the only place I found out about the front cross member removal on the whole interweb...

[arm79]

10 year thread mine. Excellent job!

[Sturmer]

ya gotta do what you gotta do!