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09-04-2021, 02:43 PM | #1 | ||
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Hello everyone, Looks like I'm finally starting on my Cortina project. I'm expecting it will take a while and I thought I'd start a thread here to try and keep all my upcoming questions in one place, and maybe others might be half-interested in what I'm doing.
I'm looking to make a 100% street-legal cruiser (QLD). By my calculations I can go as high as 3.6L so the Rover is a natural choice. A 221 v8 would have been nice (just to keep it Ford) but they're, shall we say, rare. I already have a Rover 3.5 from a P6 which is the shortest variation and has a front bowl sump, which will be the easiest to fit. So far to make it compliant my jobs to do are: 1) Brakes will be need to be upgraded to a dual-circuit and a booster fitted (looking for suggestions on master cylinder and booster). 2) Move battery to boot (clearance). 3) Enlarge tunnel to fit gearbox, if necessary (clearance). 4) Fabricate engine/box mounts. 5) Fabricate exhaust (I'm thinking of reversing P5 exhaust manifolds to exit at the front cylinders and go from there). 6) Fit retractable front seat-belts. 7) Dual wing mirrors. The car has a collapsible steering column from factory so that's covered. I'm hoping to not have to do a rack and pinion conversion, if I do it's only for room. I have a BW35 currently behind the Rover, which realistically needs a rebuild, so I'm open to suggestion of other boxes which might fit the tight space and the Rover. I'm contemplating a v8 Trimatic and Dellow bellhousing, as the BW45 bellhousing is quite large. It will be a cruiser, the car is already an auto and I want to keep the stock interior, and an auto will be kinder on the diff. As it's only a little v8 and I have a light foot I'm keeping the stock BW diff for now, and I'm hoping to keep my 13" rims. To do that I think I want to upgrade the wheel studs. Is it possible to upgrade the studs in strength of metal as opposed to physical size (just so I can keep my stock rims)? The aim is to make the conversion look as factory as possible, and not attract too much attention. I know there's a few of these conversions around - has anyone here done one? Cheers, Rob. |
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09-04-2021, 03:07 PM | #2 | ||
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I'm not sure you'll be able to keep the 13" wheels as you will need a decent brake package and not just dual circuit and booster.
Have you thought of a Triumph Stag manual box, although probably very hard to find here? |
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09-04-2021, 08:05 PM | #3 | ||
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If like you say you are not going to beat on it wouldn't a freshened up BW35 still be Ok?
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09-04-2021, 08:16 PM | #4 | |||
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Quote:
LG17: Yes I may have to go further than just dual-circuit and booster but the engineer is willing to consider it for now. |
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21-04-2021, 05:51 PM | #5 | ||
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Well the under dash brake unit costs over $2.5k, so I guess I have to find another solution!
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25-04-2021, 10:24 PM | #6 | ||
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Here’s the answer to the easiest question.... wheel studs! I got these to extend the studs on my Sierra, but went to 17” rims to house larger brakes.
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21-05-2022, 02:28 AM | #7 | ||
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Sounds interesting
Wilwood do an MC that bolts to the firewall, there's no way to get a booster on the firewall or in the engine bay and still have enough room for the engine and there's no room under the dash, however you can use a pair of remote boosters and fit them in the boot Brakes would definitely need an upgrade, I have a pair of rebuilt gt struts that have large vented rotors and 4 piston calipers The little borg warner diff will have a hard time dealing with anything that resembles torque And are.you sure it has a collapsible column ?
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GH Sigma EFI 351, 394whp @6500rpm |
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21-05-2022, 09:48 AM | #8 | ||
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Hya, The build has progressed slowly due to 'life' stuff. I'm now putting an RN20 diff under the bum and GT discs up front with a 5 stud conversion to match the rear using zephyr hubs. Brakes will be dual circuit, with a remote booster for the front...that's the plan but I'm open to advice. I've got most of the bits, I'm just working through reconditioning them one by one. I haven't decided on as master cylinder yet but I think the willwood will be a good choice. My Cortina is one of the last
MK2's built and has the 10A compliance code denoting a collapsible column (my understanding that's what the code is for). |
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21-05-2022, 06:40 PM | #9 | ||
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Yeah things seem to take forever when life gets in the way, Ive been slowly building a mk2 2 door
Mine has a supercharged Ford 3.8 v6, 5 speed manual, shortened M78 from an EL Xr6 Front brakes are VE commodore/AU falcon and EL discs on the rear but I still have the 4x108 pcd, Wilwood master and dual remote boosters in the boot I had to make a collapsible column so I modified a Toyota Yaris Epas column, not really a big deal as i had to change it anyway as the vehicle now has a rack front end
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GH Sigma EFI 351, 394whp @6500rpm |
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21-05-2022, 07:09 PM | #10 | ||
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Wow that looks like quite a build! How are you going to get a supercharged 3.8 passed the new national guidelines if you don't mind me asking? Or is it still registered lol?
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21-05-2022, 07:49 PM | #11 | |||
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Quote:
When did they change ? Its not registered, however the engineer that I've been dealing with is happy with whats been done
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GH Sigma EFI 351, 394whp @6500rpm |
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21-05-2022, 08:36 PM | #12 | ||
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They're not that new - I think they came in 2011, the National Code of Practice for light vehicle construction/modification. Basically they have a kerb weight to capacity ratio that puts max supercharged capacity for a Mk2 Cortina at about 2.5L. That's why I'm going with a Rover v8 because max NA capacity is a shade under 3.7L. But if you have an engineer on board who's happy and going to pass it, keep him happy and I'm sure it'll be roses - didn't mean to alarm you! Whereabouts are you based?
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21-05-2022, 09:11 PM | #13 | ||
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Ok
Same old vsb14 that's been around since Jesus was a boy
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GH Sigma EFI 351, 394whp @6500rpm |
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22-05-2022, 10:20 AM | #14 | ||
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I haven't read the Bible, but I though Jesus was older than that.....?
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22-05-2022, 04:35 PM | #15 | ||
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we have a club member here in QLD that has a
351 in it and legal heaps of mods went into the build to do it though |
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22-05-2022, 05:56 PM | #16 | ||
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Really? Every engineer I've spoken too has been 100% firm on the capacity (regardless of modifications). I'd love to have a chat to him if he's available?
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23-05-2022, 10:22 PM | #17 | ||
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I know of a few Windsor mk2's and 1 with a 2jz currently in the build
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GH Sigma EFI 351, 394whp @6500rpm |
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24-05-2022, 08:45 AM | #18 | ||
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Are the windsors old builds or current? If they're current I'd REALLY like to chat to their engineer - I'd much rather a windsor! 1jz fits within the LA1 formula, but I want a v8, not horsepower lmfao.
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24-05-2022, 02:41 PM | #19 | ||
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27-05-2022, 08:43 PM | #20 | ||
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It's a 2jzgte
They are all new builds, I have no idea who their engineers are
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GH Sigma EFI 351, 394whp @6500rpm |
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28-05-2022, 08:15 AM | #21 | ||
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Well next time you see them, please ask I'd love to know. I've had similar conversations outside the forums....It seems everyone knows someone who's building a v8 Cortina, but can never put me in touch with their engineer.....
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29-05-2022, 06:11 PM | #22 | ||
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didnt the mk2 have a 1.6l engine, and curb weight of 857kg, according to vsb14 that means a 6.4l is possible, being 4x stock capacity ?
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29-05-2022, 09:06 PM | #23 | |||
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Quote:
LA1 states between 800kg/1100kg it's kerb weight of heaviest sedan variant x 4 (for NA) = CC max capacity. 857kgx4= 3.428L. I've got the 1600L@922kgx4=3.68L That's how I understand it.....? |
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30-05-2022, 10:49 AM | #24 | ||
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is there any logic or engineering behind that sum at all? why is kerb weight even related to engine cc?
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30-05-2022, 11:21 AM | #25 | ||
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I assume that it's to have a rough power-to-weight scale for the lowest common denominator to grasp. Logic and legislation rarely go together.....but that's what it is.
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21-06-2022, 09:21 AM | #26 | |||
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Quote:
We can legally fit a 2.3 ecoboost that makes more power than a 351 The V6 that I'm using has 170kw (less than most modern 4 cyls) and weighs less than a 2.0 pinto but doesn't fit in the the recommended capacity
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GH Sigma EFI 351, 394whp @6500rpm |
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