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23-11-2010, 09:08 PM | #1 | ||
cast iron is real steel!
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Gracemere, Qld
Posts: 458
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G,day,
Question for the drag race only falcon owners out there if you don't mind. How do you set the wheel alignment up or more to the point how much do you lift the front when you set the alignment? Reason i ask is at static ride height i have 1/16" toe in , lift the front 2 " and the toe in goes to 1/2" and the camber pulls more negative camber. My car runs 10.29 at 130mph, 3200 lbs and i know it has a fairly nose up attitude, i'd imagine whats important is the cars front ride height at the faster part of the track say 1/8" mile onward? Thanks very much! Cheers, Paul |
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26-11-2010, 07:37 PM | #2 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: NQ
Posts: 1,781
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I'm interested in this as well, hope someone with the knowledge can shed some light
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26-11-2010, 10:50 PM | #3 | ||
Fixing Ford's **** ups
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: In a house
Posts: 4,759
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To set the alignment up, with the "nose up" attitude, firstly, you'd need to know exactly how far up the nose really is, when the car is going down the track.
Sounds stupid I know, but to get it right, as by your explaination, that's what is really needed. Raising a car in the air, changes Camber, Caster and toe. The best setting for the alignment, for your purpose, would be as much Caster as possible, for high speed stability, 0 camber and approximately 5MM toe in. This toe figure is a guestimate but. To set the toe correctly on the car, the aligner would have to push on the inside edges of front tyres and work out how much the toe is moving. From that figure, you'd set the toe, so it is at 0, with the front wheels pushed to their furtherest limits, as described. Of course these settings are done, with the car raised, via the control arms to the actual height the car is at, when travelling down the track. That's about the best I can come up with to answer your question properly
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A wheel alignment fixes everything, when it comes to front end issues. This includes any little noises. Please read the manual carefully, as the these manufacturers spent millions of dollars making sure it is perfect.....Now why are there so many problems with my car, when I follow the instructions to the letter?....Answer, majority rules round here Lock me up and throw away the key because I'm a hoon....I got caught doing 59 in a 60 zone |
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27-11-2010, 09:59 AM | #4 | ||
cast iron is real steel!
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Gracemere, Qld
Posts: 458
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G,day,
Thanks for the reply! so if for instance we do that at the height it is going down the track, and set it for 0 toe whilst we are pushing the wheels apart. When we back off at the deep end and get on the brakes we will definently be toeing out , that isn't an issue? Thanks again! Paul |
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27-11-2010, 10:17 AM | #5 | |||
Guest
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Gods Country
Posts: 16,258
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Quote:
The last thing you want in the top end is a heap of -toe out in the braking area at full speed weight transfer... she will dart left and right all over the place .. Daz. |
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27-11-2010, 02:01 PM | #6 | ||
cast iron is real steel!
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Gracemere, Qld
Posts: 458
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Thanks Daz, thats basically what i have been thinking, just to set it to zero at the std ride height with me in it and forget aout it.
Cheers |
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27-11-2010, 04:56 PM | #7 | ||
Guest
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Gods Country
Posts: 16,258
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Anytime brother ..
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27-11-2010, 07:54 PM | #8 | ||
Fixing Ford's **** ups
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: In a house
Posts: 4,759
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When you are braking, the toe goes to toe in, not toe out. So a slight error made on 2 peoples behalf.
IMA. The toe change won't be really dramatic, as it's being made out to be and won't be an issue. To see what sort of change you'll have, whilst it's on the hoist, grab the outside of both front wheels and push them towards each other. You'll probably have 3 to 5MM toe in. To clarify the toe setting procedure, I'll try and explain it a bit better. By pushing the wheels outwards, you are simulating how much the wheels are being pushed, when the car is in motion. If you can get 5 MM as a toe out reading, by pushing the wheels outwards, by releasing the wheels, you then set the toe to 5MM toe in. That way, when the car is moving forward, you then have 0 toe, which is what you are ultimately aiming for. Hope that clarifies it alot better
__________________
A wheel alignment fixes everything, when it comes to front end issues. This includes any little noises. Please read the manual carefully, as the these manufacturers spent millions of dollars making sure it is perfect.....Now why are there so many problems with my car, when I follow the instructions to the letter?....Answer, majority rules round here Lock me up and throw away the key because I'm a hoon....I got caught doing 59 in a 60 zone |
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27-11-2010, 08:21 PM | #9 | ||
cast iron is real steel!
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Gracemere, Qld
Posts: 458
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G,day svo supporter,
Thanks for the reply, i don't follow you but when you say the wheels toe in when braking? If i lift the chassis it toes in, if i sit on the ground with weight in it as it is now it toes out, i'd imagine hitting the brakes at speed will pull the front down and compress the front end more and toe out more? Will have a play on the wheel aligner on wednesday or thursday. Cheers Paul |
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16-02-2016, 09:13 PM | #10 | ||
Guest
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Gods Country
Posts: 16,258
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so was svo right or not mate ?
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