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Old 08-08-2012, 03:25 PM   #29
gcmc2
Regular Member
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 128
Default Re: Aluminium bodies for Australian made cars.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ugg
I weighed an 18 inch alloy wheel and tyre on the home scales just for a laugh.

24 kg.....!

Easy way to save weight...leave it at home and put a can of "tyre goo" in the boot?
Well, that's actually the point. Dry weight and kerb weight have always been expressed for vehicles and dry weight is significant.

From what many posters here think kerb weight is the only thing that matters. Apparently advising dry has been a waste of time for all these years.

Maybe we should go to the state transport authorities and say we want top pay a bit extra for rego because they shouldn't use dry weight to calculate the weight component of our registration fees because kerb weight is all that matters.

I do in fact run my car light. I can't imagine why anyone would want to do all their stop start city driving ( which is for most of us the majority of our mileage ) with a full fuel tank.

I prefer not to carry and extra 55kgs around unnecessarily so I'm happy to run around with $30 worth of petrol in the tank.

Since a full tank of petrol reresents usually about 70% of the fluids I'm actually running much closer to the car's dry wieght than I am to its kerb weight so it can't possibly be insignificant can it ?

It is actually more significant that its kerb weight because that's the weight of the car as I drive it around every day.

So in fact if I want to drive with economy in mind Kerb weight doesn't matter a jot does it ?

The kerb weight is actually a variable while the dry weight isn't. The dry weight actually determines the weight at which I can drive my car around.

Regardless of whether the cars are compared at their dry or kerb weights , the point is that even if there's only 140 or 150 kgs in it, that's a lot for two cars of the same size.
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