“Picking” a BF Falcon Door Lock

[Citroënbender]

HUF type door lock, out of the car.

Is it simple as:

1. Unstake and remove the two retainer plates at rear, then
2. Work all the wafers in with a fine tool while applying tension
3. Rotate 90° and withdraw plug?

Or is there a gate at the front of the lock that must also be flipped to allow rotation of the plug?

I want to have the lock re-keyed to match an ignition lock, and do it at minimal cost.

[Tonz]

dont be such a tightass, locksmith (not Mr Minute) should have that done easy as. Not saying he will.

[Citroënbender]

Due to impatience, I’ve already answered half my question - with a fine point tool and tension applied, you can ease the wafers in and rotate the plug.

However, I’m stuck on the retainer plates. Have filed off the peening/staking but they must be a very tight fit regardless.

[Citroënbender]

The retainer plates… Now removed and lock dismantled.

Shaped like a “squashed letter T” is best how I can describe them. Removal the butcher’s way after filing off the staking is: Drill a 1-1,5 mm hole vertically abutting one retainer short side and prise up the retainer edge with a dental pick. Repeat for the other retainer. Then you can extract the cylinder plug. Take extreme care not to lose any of the eight small wafer springs.

Wafers are (I believe, Marty may correct me) in two series: 11-15 and 1-5; these sets vary by being mirrors of each other:

[mad2]

Originally Posted by Citroënbender

The retainer plates… Now removed and lock dismantled.

Shaped like a “squashed letter T” is best how I can describe them. Removal the butcher’s way after filing off the staking is: Drill a 1-1,5 mm hole vertically abutting one retainer short side and prise up the retainer edge with a dental pick. Repeat for the other retainer. Then you can extract the cylinder plug. Take extreme care not to lose any of the eight small wafer springs.

Wafers are (I believe, Marty may correct me) in two series: 11-15 and 1-5; these sets vary by being mirrors of each other:

image

Thanks

i'm stripping [trying] some AU/BA door locks here to see what's the go with a AU/BA tailgate lock..

[Citroënbender]

Tibbe door lock cylinders look harder to dismantle than later Huf types. I might be missing some obvious detail, however.

Here’s an exploded view showing the retainer profiles.

[mad2]

i presume you still have the locking pin?.

i 'think' the early AU [not sure what it came out of now] sedan has the locking 'U' shaped clip which you remove & lock comes apart [altho i didn't totally dismantle it .. yet]. i had to destroy the plastic lever on another so i could see what was behind it. now have to workout how to remove the next plastic clip. this is a link to what the first one looks like.

i'm currently thinking i need the key to remove the actual tailgate tumblers? as i don't see anything 'locking' it in. i'd like to see if i can 'update' the AU/BA style lock to the later BF/FG style so it matches the door/ignition locks. i know the key cover will have to be customised.

[Citroënbender]

That lock kit you linked is ridiculously cheap; should be at least double.

There’s very little similarity (none really) with the BF-onwards type, though. :-/ No “locking pin” for the Huf type barrel.

[mad2]

is the inner section of the barrel round as per previous models?.

[Citroënbender]

Yes, but you definitely couldn’t put a Huf plug in a Tibbe outer. In a week or so I’ll try to dismantle an AU Tibbe door lock and lay it out similarly for comparison.